I have been fighting my check engine light for over 6 months. I have taken the car to 3 independent garages and when they read the codes it is the Cam Sensor that shows bad. I replaced the cam sensor but that hasn't resolved it. Each time, I had the shop clear the codes, but they come back within 5-7 starts. The battery disconnect is even less effective, I was told that it doesn't truly erase the code out of memory to disconnect the battery.
The car starts, runs good, good accel response when warm and 22mpg highway and town. There is one exception and I hesitate to mention it because the check engine light preceded this problem...when the car has been parked at the office all day (8 hrs) and I start it and within 5-8 minutes I am attempting to accelerate, it dogs it and I have to jump on the throttle, which of course puts extra stress on the trans.
At that time, I am doing 15-25,mph, I expect it to respond without my having to floor it. On another note which may or may not influence any advice, when the car has been parked overnight or in cold weather less than 38 degrees (F), it won't start without my assisting by flooring the throttle. Of course I don't have to crank it long and then have to get out of the throttle cuz there isn't much oil up top yet. It has never failed to start.
I guess I could have broken this up into three different posts, however, as far as diagnosis goes, I know that it helps to have as much info as possible.
On the cam sensor, I did not follow the installation guidelines in the service manual (alldatadiy.com), instead, I mic'd the unit I pulled and the new one and the shoulder to sensor tip dimension was identical. So I used the shim that was on the unit I pulled off. I was attempting to keep from pulling things apart.. was that wrong? :
The cam sensor, I believe provides timing for the second cam.
I would like to understand it's operation better and know how much tolerance there is in the positioning of the sensor.