This filter gets replaced with each FSS service on my 98 E430. Can this filter be replaced by "Average Joe" with average tools? Where is it located? If so, maybe a feature in the DIY section would be nice. Thanks.

------------------
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1998 MERCEDES-BENZ E430
<LI>OBSIDIAN BLACK METALLIC/BLACK LEATHER
<LI>XENON H.I.D. LOW BEAMS
<LI>DEBADGED (E430 REAR)
<LI>AMG CHROMED TIP DUAL EXHAUST
<LI>CARLSSON 1/6 CHROME (PLUS 1) WHEELS
<LI>SLK "WREATH" WHEEL CENTER CAPS
<LI>ALPINE CHM-S611 CD CHANGER
</UL>

I replaced mine twice already. There are four screws for the glove box, they have to come out. After that give the glove box a good tug, I was afraid at first because I really had to pull hard. Once it came out you will see where the filters go. The filters cost about $35.00

P.S. Be sure to get all of the screws, it may be more than 4..

------------------
Peter L. House
1998 Sport E430
Azure Blue

We have these filters in PartsShop:
210 830 00 18 Dust filter (2 req'd)

We stock OEM quality MANN filters.

The charcoal filter is:
210 830 02 18 we do not currently have these in stock.

------------------
Bill Wood - Webmaster
MercedesShop.com, LLC

[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 02-02-2000).]

I just had the dealer replace both the dust filters and the charcoal filter.

The dust filters where very dirty, I wish I could take apic and send, hmmmmm maybe I can..

More later

------------------
Chris Ecklund
98 300 DT

Do these often!! They will save you the headache of overheating the blower regulator and having to replace it.

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

There are two filters? Who knew? Which one is 210 830 10 18?

To cut down on confusion get that Silver E430 (is it Bill Wood's) you always use and do a DIY feature replacing both the pollen filter and the charcoal climate control filter. I am trying to save money on this type of routine maintenance. Thanks.

Kevin-
The 210 830 10 18 is the new part number for the 210 830 00 18. It's the same filter we just have it stocked under the old number.
Something else for the Webmaster to fix....

Good suggestion on the Cabin filter DIY. We'll see what we can do.

------------------
Bill Wood - Webmaster
MercedesShop.com, LLC

[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 02-02-2000).]

Does the W126 1984 300SD have a similar filter?

I have removed all screws on the glove box: Two screws besides the light, two inside bottom, and ALL facing the passenger. How hard do I have to pull on the glove box? I noticed there are 4 tiny rectangular marks to the right of the inside. Is it some kind of special tools that will provide more leverage to remove? Do you grab the glove box door and pull it hard? I am afraid of breaking the hinges.

Thanks
Car Nut
99 E430 Sport

I've found that a long plastic wedge or screwdriver works good. Remove the lamp and unplug. Insert the wedge through the opening towards one side and pry down while pulling at the same time. There are tabs on the top of the box that keep it tight behind the dash. Do both sides and it slides right out. Then slide the white lock up and remove the access door to the filters. Replace them in the same position. You'll be amazed at how dirty they are.

Bill
1991 300E

Mercedes Shop, I made this suggestion a while back and I still have not changed my filters.

Can we get a DIY on the charcoal/dust filters found in the dash behind the glove box for the W210. Thanks.

[Edited by Kevin on 03-06-2001 at 03:28 PM]

Yep, we still owe you that...
 

One of these days we WILL do the cabin filter article. I think it was about a year ago that we last discussed this. Unfortunately, it has never made it to the top of the to-do pile.

About all I can do for now is to repost these pics:

http://www.peachparts.com/images/210_cabinfilter1.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/images/210_cabinfilter2.jpg

How frequently should the dust and charcoal filters be replaced?
I think I know the dust filter is every 30,000 mi. and is relatively inexpensive. Not the case with the charcoal one (which I never turn on . . .). How often should I replace the charcoal filter?

I believe that Mercedes recommends replacing the charcoal filter every 60,000 miles at a cost of around $200.

I rarely activate the charcoal filter so I have not changed mine yet. The Parts person at the local Mercedes dealer suggested that I replace my charcoal filter (at 60,000 mi.) otherwise I will risk getting bacteria in the car. I did not buy this because by his logic every Mercedes without the charcoal filter must have bacteria in it.

I will replace my charcoal filter when it can no longer get the smell of skunk from the car. No kidding, when I approached a dead skunk on the road, I activated the charcoal filter and within 5 sec. I no longer smelled skunk (note the windows and sunroof must be closed for this to work).

w210 glove box removal
 

Dear webmaster: I am trying to get the glove box out on my 210 e300d. I have removed the 4 screws facing me and also found 2 more on either side of the light fixture which access vertically through a hole on each side of the light.

1: are these screws involved with the removal or should I replace them first. (the two vertical ones)
2: I am unable to decide how to remove the light lens cover as it appears likely to break if not done properly.
3: the glove box appears to be held upper cental area but can be slid from side to side a little. Suggesting that there are tabs on it.
4: What to do about 1,2,3. and/or how to get the whole thing out correctly.
Thanks, Harvey

Once the 6 screws are removed, you can just pull out on the glovebox assembly to remove it. It will take a hard jerk to remove it. There are tabs on top, but you stand the chance of damaging the dash if you pry around on it. OTOH I have never damaged a glovebox assembly by jerking it out. When it comes loose, you can then disconnect the wire from the glovebox light if you want to, but for replacing the filter it's not neccesary to dosconnect the light.

Gilly

I've done this once and my only comment is that I had to pull/jerk very hard, much harder than I'd have thought was reasonable. To make matters worse when the screws were out it didn't feel as though the box was tight/wedged but rather that it was held up on something positive that was meant to be removed. Having checked and double checked all the screws were out I removed a number of other dash parts trying to see what was going on - all to no avail. In the end I simply pulled VERY HARD, align your forearm with the glove box door to spread the force over the whole width of the door.

BTW if you're glove box door makes a strange noise on opening you may be able to fix it by lubricating the dashpot damper which is accessible when the glove box is out.

Good luck,

Peter

210 Filter change
 

The glove box is a tough pull, once you get all the screws out.

Once the box comes out, unhook the light. No need to remove it.

There is a white clip holding the cover to the filter. It unlocks from the bottom. Once you get it off,and remove the black cover you will see the dirty filters.

The instructions come with the new filter, if your not sure.

Cost is around $20.00 for replacement. Don't neglect.

TIP: After putting in the first filter and sliding it over in place. Put a little lubricant on the edge of the foam of the second filter, before sliding it in. It will go in easier and won't hang on the first filter.


Mike Mullins

97 E320

Thank you all. I now feel well armed with the right knowledge. Have ordered the filters from the parts shop. Will place feedback on this string when the deed is done. I am expecting very dirty filters as I am sure they have never been changed. Will check the charcoals later but doubt they were used much.

Got it done. And you were right about having to pull harder than you would like. However, I did notice that while pulling that there was exposed a slot at the top of the dash frame on either side and when flat screwdriver placed in this and twisted (there is one on each side.) that it pops the top loose on the side applied. The filters were indeed yucky. No doubt the previous owner did not get MB service. I also found the engine air filter equally dirty. The charcoal filters were not dirty and I suspect they were not used. We and the engine are now breathing easily again. Thanks to all. Harvey

Got it done. Had to vacuum out the area since the old filters were garbaged. Hint, there is a slot in the top edge of the glovebox just in front of each of the two tabs holding it in. First pull down on the lock tab that sticks out until you can see one or both of the slots. Place a flat blade of screw driver into the slot enough to pry it down, and leave it there as you pull firmly. Repeat on the other slot and out it pops. Hope that helps someone. Cheers.

Regarding the charcoal filter, my understanding is that it needs to be replaced at the appropriate interval, regardless of whether the charcoal filter is seldom switched on. Is this true?

Or, is it just good practice to replace them both at the same time, especially since removing the glove box is not very easy.

My car has 67k on it and I inspected the charcoals after changing out the regular filters. Mine looked new and not discolored. My thought is that people rarely turn them on unless pressed by a bad smell. Odds are they, like me, won't make the effort unless really offended. So I doubt that there is more than several hours on mine (can't prove it of course). I can say that as a physician, that there is not likely to be any bacteria in the filter at all. Mold spors should be mostly in the regularefilters since all goes through there first. Charcoal without moisture, does not promote bacterial growth at all. I therefore do not think the charcoal refills are a good investment unless used a lot and begin to fail. But WTHDIK? Just my opinion.

The service interval for the charcoal filters on the 210 chassis is 45,000 miles. If you don't want to do it, hey, it's a free country, don't do it.
I'd base the decision on how often you use the feature and how important it is to you to have the filters at peak efficiency. Someone with lots of allergies may feel differently than someone without.
I'm a "good German" though and try to get the owners to replace them on schedule. Every 45,000 miles or 4 years.

Gilly

Fair enough, I will bow to your good judgement. Thanks for the input.

OK, I changed the "dust" filters on my 1998 E320 sedan today. Sorry, I forgot my digital camera so I don't have any pictures.

But I can say this. There are EIGHT screws to remote the glove box. There are 4 that are clearly visible in the upper right and left sides of the front of the glove box. There are 2 that are on the "floor" of the inside of the glove box that are covered by plastic covers. And finally there are 2 more on the "ceiling" of the inside of the glove box that require a short screwdriver to get to. All screws are phillips head.

So I take all eight screws off and with one hard tug I snapped the glovebox out. The filters were VERY dirty and there were about 200 pine needles all over the place back there. BLAH!!! I got the parts from my local dealership, both filters come in a package. Price was like $18.50 since my friend works at a repair shop.

I slid the filters in and that was that.

NOW, where is the charcoal filter? I looked at the parts diagram and it seems like it's to the left of the glovebox and you must take apart the dash or get under the dash to get to them.

My '98 E320 only has 37k miles on it and the previous owner (original owner) never used the charcoal filter so I am not even going to bother checking how clean it is unless it's easy to get to.

Thanks to everyone on this forum who posted part #s, photos, and tips and tricks, it was helpful! :-)

Cheers!

Technique, The charcoa filters are under the passenger side dash and can be reached by removing the underneat cover. It is pretty simple from there, and they are (two of them) pulled down to remove after the covers are removed. You cannot clean them. However, if what you say is so, I wouldn't replace them either, since I did not. Cost is about 165+ and not worth it. Unfortunately you cannot tell if a charcoal filter is full of smells or not, except if it does not work. Therefore I left mine in as they are still working. Since they are not main line, they will not obstruct the flow of air unless turned on when they are full. However, WTHDIK. See the comment of Gilleybenztech. I will send you a copy of the manual for this. I will need your email since it won't attach. Regards, Harvey

Hmmmm, I have no way of knowing if the filters are working unless I drive by a smelly area and then turn the filter on. I tend to drive with the charcoal on 100% of the time since I am in the washington DC area now and don't like pollen or pollution. I wish there was a way to visually look at the filters and see if they are "good" or not... Is there any quantitative way to test it? Or qualitative way to inspect them?

Thanks!

PS - I emailed you a message with my email. :)

I really don't know of any other way to test. The dust filters pretty well keep any particulate material, pollens, etc out. As for charcoal, it is an adsorbent, not absorbent. It chemically binds to molecules, such as in odors, fumes, non-odorous toxins, gases. If you use it all the time, then you best change it. MB recommends every 60k, but more often I would suspect if you use in constantly.

Ok,
I've been through this post three or four times since my A/C is a bit smelly unless I use the charcoal filter. I ordered the filters, and an air filter, from our host and marched out to the car this morning ready for a tug of war with the glove box.

First I noticed that the screws had been removed before by the scratches in the green primer on the heads. I removed all eight and the glovebox almost fell out in my hands. It took zero effort to pull it out. After removing the black door/white latch assembly, the pollen filters themselves go in really easily. I reinstalled the black door/white latch assembly and put the glovebox and screws back in. The nasty odor is gone. The old filters didn't really look very dirty, but they sure smelled up the A/C. Anyway it was really easy and the air filter was too. :D Sure hope it remains odorless for a while; time will tell.

just followed the instructions on this thread the changed the cabin filters. took me about 30 minutes. but for the next time, i can probably do it in 10 min. thank you all for the tips.

Dust filters
 

I have a 1995 E320 coupe. Can anyone tell me where the filters are located so I can R&R them?? Where can I get replacement filters? Does this vehicle have a charcoal filter??

CHARCOAL FILTER FACTS! other musings.
 

Ok, folks, I amin the same boat. Finally I decided on changing cabin air filter myself on my w210 E320 1999. When I bought them, they came in a 2 pack.. Both go in the same spot? I am yet to pull my glove box out.

Also, for those of you who are not fanatics.. please don't change your cabin filter unless its dripping dirty ! These are 110 dollars (not 200 as claimed, or some delaers charge). Yes, 110 dollars! for a filter? What they put gold in it?

By the way, HELP ME OUT. Can anybody spare me a USED CHARCOAL FILTER? I wanto get my office lab guy determine the 'particle laoding' , basically how dirty it was testing done. Its free for me to get done! May be we will get some insight. Typically, charcoal filters ahve a 'breakdown point' on loading and after that, they stop being functional.. Basically, hydrocarbons, like gas fumes (not emissions unless you are parked behind a cold start engine of another car) is the most likely culprit to kill the charcoal filters. Also, I must say PERFUMEs! do kill your chaorcoal filter. So, those of you who are leaving a 'freshener' in your , check out if that is a petroleum product based. I can say that if you load a activated carbon filter with cooking grease (chinese food in the passenger seat any one?) or one of those evaporating room fresheners, you may be reducing the life! Ofcourse, if you use them while not operating the charcoal filter, it would be no biggie!


Anyway, coming back to my air filter replacement, what's the deal with 2 pack of filters?I bought the 2 pack for 16 dollars by the way!

logikman, Been there done that, wanna hear it, here goes;
There are 6 screws; two on the top of the glove box facing you, two on the bottom inside facing down (under the little rubber plugs) and two on top inside next the the light fixture. (you will have to look up with a flash to see them. Don't remove the ones holding the light. After you remove all of them, then pull down on the top (grab the lock tongue) and look carefully along the upper edge of the box on each side, and you will find a notch on each side. Take a small flat blade screw driver and wedge it in one of those notches and then grab the door (which is attached) and pull firmly out. If you twist the screw driver slightly, it will release the drawer on that side, you may then try the same on the other side. It may take two people, one to twist the screw driver blade, and one pulling firmly on the door. Dont be afraid, you should not break it even with major effort. It will pop loose and then slide out easily. You will then see that there are two plastic notches that were holding it in. Most people just report that pulling firmly on the door will do the trick, but when I discovered the notches it made it easier. Once out, then you will see a plastic slide cover over the front of the filter space. Slide it off and you will see the filters. You must pull the left one out and then slide the right one to the left to get it out. I would then vacuum the space and mess that you find. Then. Reverse the whole process and you are done.
The charcoals, I have not replaced, but you must remove the bottom cover under the dash to get to them. I plan to do this sometime soon and will publish my results. Good Luck, Harvey

Could be blocked drain pipe
 

Sometimes when the condesation hose from the A/C unit gets blocked, the musty odor stays put. That would be by far the most likely cause for post of our interiors to smell bad. Also, if you switch off A/c atleast 15 seconds to 30 seconds before actually turning off car, the condensations tays minimal. My automotive climate controls design engineer friend told me these tips.


Anyway, FOLKS! Does anyone have a spare USED CHARCOAL FILTER to send me? I WANT TO GET SOME ANALYSIS DONE on it in our lab and AM LOOKING FOR VOLUNTEERS WHO ARE WILLING TO DONATE USED CHARCOAL FILTERS. I DON't MID WHAT MODEL car it is, JUST LET ME know what year and model it is. I Will pay for the SHIPPING AND HANDLING and appreciate your help!

Thanks

Logikman

DONATE ME YOUR USED CHARCOAL FILTER!
 

Anyway, FOLKS! Does anyone have a spare USED CHARCOAL FILTER to send me? I WANT TO GET SOME ANALYSIS DONE on it in our lab and AM LOOKING FOR VOLUNTEERS WHO ARE WILLING TO DONATE USED CHARCOAL FILTERS. I DON't MID WHAT MODEL car it is, JUST LET ME know what year and model it is. I Will pay for the SHIPPING AND HANDLING and appreciate your help!

Thanks

Logikman

DONATE ME YOUR USED CHARCOAL FILTER!
 

Anyway, FOLKS! Does anyone have a spare USED CHARCOAL FILTER to send me? I WANT TO GET SOME ANALYSIS DONE on it in our lab and AM LOOKING FOR VOLUNTEERS WHO ARE WILLING TO DONATE USED CHARCOAL FILTERS. I DON't MID WHAT MODEL car it is, JUST LET ME know what year and model it is. I Will pay for the SHIPPING AND HANDLING and appreciate your help!

Thanks

Logikman

charcoal filters
 

Hello Logikman: I did my charcoal filters a week ago and unfortunately the old ones went out with the trash. They were quite heavy and dirty, with powdered charcoal present on the surface of the grids. The replacements, were different construction. Wavy folded with porous fiber covering but inside the same plastic containers. Suspect they are aftermarket, but did not ask Phil at Fastlane. Sorry I did not know about your project. I would assume that since the dust filters are first in line, that the only thing getting through to the charcoals are micron size and since they are activated charcoal, their primary effect is to adsorb (surface connect) gases, odors. They then get heavier as they go and eventually also plug up with any particulate matter that gets through the dust filters. If the dust filters are changed at appropriate intervals, the charcols should last longer, esp for people like me who do not use them too often. (Tulsa Oklahoma). I did note that since my old charcoals were full that they did inhibit the flow of air considerably when swithed on. Now the flow is much improved. That's about the sum of my knowledge. Regards, Harvey

cabin filter DIY???
 

cabin filter DIY???
Is this one that got lost?;)
There is enough data here to write a DIY...:)

Thanks for reminding me...
 

Good idea!
Here it is.
I'm always looking for new DIY articles. This is one that fell through the cracks!

Old thread again. I didn't see a corection to this. There are six screws. Of the four visible on the upper right and left sides, only remove the top two. The lower two (still near the top) are door stops. Don't remove them.

Same thing, with pictures
 

I was on holidays, I read this post and since I didn't see any pics, I decided to take a few while doing the job.

Additionnal pics...
 

Particular instructions are included in the file names... hope they will appear!

Ok, I don't see the file names the way I uploaded the pictures.

So, basically, everything has been said here about that job, I'm just confirming everything with the pictures.

If someone could include them in the DIY, please feel free. I have better resolution ones as well.

I would add here that, to remove the light in the glove box, start by pruing off on the right hand side, it's the way to go.

I agree with the good strength it takes to pull the glove box out, just a little more than we'd like it to take.

I included one picture about the glove box door openning damper. On mine, the little white retaining link was broken. I tied up with some fishing wire (guess where I was!).

Finally, I would add that mine were extremely dirty. No idea if they had ever been replaced by PO. I can now "feel" the wind speed out from the vents to be much higher for the same control position, so now quieter as well (I run the fan slower for same "wind blow").

Bye,

I just did mine, two screws on either side of the light, two more under rubber covers on the bottom, two more facing you. There were two bumpers that i took out just for safetys sake.It drove me crazy not to be able to take the two next to the light, got a mirror, MB never put them back.
It does take a good tug, I dont know why but there are four ridges, the door comes with it, unplug the light once you have it partially out. The filters are side by side, take one out slide the other over. The Bosch box had the instructions

As Peter says, no need to completely remove the light - just unplug it as you are removing the glovebox.

the ridges are not crucial to glove box fit, I opine, and serve merely to elicit
cursing upon removal. so after you remove the glove box, take a small file
and taper the ridge to roughly 45º slope (instead of OEM of 70º) and it will
ease removal *immensely* from that point on. I did this and suffered no
rattling afterwards. seems a pretty tame mod

http://i17.tinypic.com/5zbbx9j.jpg

Amen to the ramp, I guess in my case it served a purpose of them forgetting to put in the upper screws

Well I just finished replacing my cabin filters after a second attempt. Remove the six screws as instructed and then you need to grab the bottom of the door and pull very sharply. I initially used a scew driver and plastic putty knife to try and ease it out.
It didn't work and I disfigured the surrounding dash. I had to take a heat gun ( or hair dryer at VERY low setting )and carefuly kneed the plastic (leatherette)" dash back into place ..a close call but worked great. I used a mirror to locate the scews next to the light on the roof of the glove box and used a small magnet to get them out as they didn't want to drop. I used a 1/4" torque bar with a adapter and no.2 Philips screw head to get the roof screws out
I have decided not to replace the roof screws and may file edge down as recommended. Good luck...it does feel like you will break the door hinges but they seem to be able to take a very forceful pull.

I made an attempt at removing the glove box last night (and into this morning...) and could have sworn there were more hidden screws or black magic in there somewhere holding that sucker in. Unreal.

Driving into work this AM - no noise coming from that thing at all. With the interference fit of this piece, the screws are seemingly superfluous!

Excellent tips - thanks to all that shared their (horror) stories. :)

Cheers,

Matt