I got mine from Potomac. Note the first one they supplied only lasted about a week. They were real good about sending a replacement, once I told them I could narrow it down to the regulator by checking voltages at the 3 pin. The replacement has worked fine.

I do get more variability in temp from the ACC than I believe I should (more than my 84 SD has), and I know the sensor fan works correctly, its new. Probably the subject for another post/thread

Paul

I replaced the blower motor and regulator on my 124 (87 300TD) a couple of years ago. At first I was convinced that it was the regulator, since the fan was intermittent and worked on the bench. I replaced the regulator and there was no difference. It turned out that there were some spots where the motor would stop and not be able to start. I then replaced the motor and all has been fine since - as you would expect. The Mercedes Tech I bought the parts from was convinced that these parts tend to fail together - when one is going bad it affects the other. I'm no electronics guru, so this may not make sense - but there it is. In surrort of this theory, a relative also has a 124 and he replaced the blower motor and then shortly had to replace the regulator (I think it was in that order). I think I still have the regulator I took off of the car if anyone is interested in buying it.

I am looking for a regulator for my 94 E320 (w/ filters) if that means anything. Give me more info on your regulator that I could cross check for my application.

Tom (Letsroll)

The MB part number on it is 124 820 27 10, but that may have changed - I remember that the new one was somewhat different - mainly smaller (same mountinng though). Chris

My 1992 300d has a dead blower....I think

no Blower
no compressor engage
nothing but hot air when driving


Do I access the blower and regulator after removing the wiper assembly

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Wayne Jockers
1992 300D

Short answer is yes you remove the mono wiper first.

Do a search on removing the blower in a W124 its covered well on the list.

the regulator is under a plastic cover, you need to remove the cover and then twist the regulator/heat sink assembly to the side to remove it.

If you're not getting a compressor engage then maybe there's a larger problem. Above the fuse box and towards the center of the car is a three wire plug. It's tough to see. One of the wires is hot, the other is ground and the third is the signal that sets the blower speed. If you ground the signal on the plug side (the side attached to the wire) and pass 12+ to red and 12- to black the fan should blow full speed. I would do this first just to help isolate the problem. The fan will pull upwards of 20 amps.

Robert

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

Have you checked the fusable link?

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

You will see the connector for the resistor mates up on the firewall on the drivers side. This is a three pin connector. You also need to check voltages here check my first post in the thread for the colors and voltages. This will tell you if it is the regulator or the button box.
What are the voltages should be on the 3 pin connector?

You will see the connector for the resistor mates up on the firewall on the drivers side. This is a three pin connector. You also need to check voltages here check my first post in the thread for the colors and voltages. This will tell you if it is the regulator or the button box.

WHAT ARE THE VOLTAGES SHOULD BE ON THE 3 PIN CONNECTOR?

Is this a question or an answer????

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A Dalton

where do i look to see if i have the 'dust filter' on my 86 300e? also my blower quit, i took it out and it works good with 12v on the bench, but when i put it back in and tried to 'ground' it by running a wire from the blue wire terminal on the blower to the ground on the battery i get nothing. does that mean the regulator is bad? what should i try next? i've heard that the w130 reg can be subed for the the w124 one does anybody know? the w130 is about 200$ cheaper! thanks