talk me out of this one...

[Mark DiSilvestro]

To unhook the driveshaft from the diff. flange, a good combination metric wrench (I think 13 or 14 mm - bring a set), a socket and extension to loosen the center bearing mount (again 13 or 14 mm I think) and a screwdriver/small chisel/prybar to bend open the lock-plates securing the nuts. After unhooking the driveshaft and securing the end, best to re-tighten the center bearing bolts - wouldn't want the driveshaft dropping out on the trip home! And remove the 4 diff. flange nuts, lockplates and special bolts to a safe place so they're not lost.

My factory Mercedes shop manual lists a change to a clamp nut at the driveshaft sliding joint as of August 1965. Don't know if that applies to the 220SE but bring a big adjustable pliers just in case.
Also a reliable jack and jackstands and something to chock the front wheels - you need the tranny out of park, the parking brake off and at least one rear wheel off the ground so you can rotate the driveshaft to easily access the 4 nuts.

As for substitute wheels, the steel 14 inch rims off the W108 250S/SE and 280S/SE will bolt right up, however the alloy 'Bundts' may require longer wheel fasteners and, in the case of my '60 Fintail, it uses studs which may not be long enough.

Maybe it would make more sense to rent a full trailer.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Could I use the fasteners that are on my SD? I would park my car at work, 25 miles form my house, then remove 2 wheels. At work is the Suburban we'd drive to pick it up. The tires on there probably wouldn't hold would they for a 4 hour trip?
Also, would a 111 have more rear leg room than my SD? I think my car has hardly any, and it's a decently sized car!
Thanks
David

One last thing, how would I want to begin the process of reviving this beast? I know about the ATF in the plug holes, but what would be best about the brakes? There's not really much else, except for all fluids.
Thanks Again

[Mark DiSilvestro]

My early '60s Mercedes have STUDS pressed into the axle hubs and flanges, with LUGNUTS screwed on to hold the wheels. Don't know when Mercedes switched to LUGBOLTS but suspect it was around the late '60s.
Doesn't your SD have LUGBOLTS that screw into threaded holes in the axle/hub flange? If the '65 220SE has STUDS that are too short to hold your alloy wheels, you would need to drive the studs out of the axles and hubs, then install longer ones. No way to screw your SD wheel LUGBOLTS into Fintail wheel STUDS.
Last time I checked, NTB stocked cheapo house-brand 185/80R13 tires that would fit those Fintail rims, if you must use a tow-dolly.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I can't get uhaul's website to come up on my comp! I was talking to my dad and he wants me to look into having it shipped, which shippers add a couple hundred just becasue it doesn't run! So, we were thinking renting a single car trailer.(one that is a flat bed and the car drives up on) Did you ever find any 13" tires for your finnie? Also, will we ever be able to see pics of it? I know it's rusty, but that's all relative if you ask me. However, I can't stand any rust on my car. I feel like it is pointless at times to fix things when it's just dissintegrating on me in return.
Thanks
David

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I got a reply from him. He said he hasn't tried to start the car in years. Do you personally think that the engine would be seized after 15+ years?
Thanks
David

P.S.
It went up to $511 with just two bids! Oh no, I'm getting scared with just 20 hours to go. I'm afraid to leave my computer. I haven't bid on it yet, I guess my dad wants to wait towards the end...Anyone nkow how high I should follow it until I let it go? Man, I reallly don't want to let this one go.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

As of last spring, NTB had 13" house-brand radials in a 185/80R13 to fit my Fintail, for about $34 each. I've since acquired a set of 14" steel rims off a '68 W108 280S that fit my car perfectly, will accept my original hubcaps and allow me to fit 185/70R14 or 185/75R14 tires, which are much more widely availible.

Until I get a garage, or at least a covered carport, there's not much point in starting renovation on my Fintail. For now, she runs very well and I'll just keep enjoying driving her.

My current WebTV doesn't have picture posting ability so I ressurected a thread on the Diesel Discussion Forum titled 'Richmond GTG Photos' If you want to see my car (Hint - It's the one wih the fins!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Mark DiSilvestro]

I had a 1964 DKW Convertible that sat outside in the weeds for 27 years and the engine spun over like it was parked yesterday. Of course it looked like the previous owner had installed brand new antifreeze when it was parked.
On the other hand, my sadly neglected,'61 Ponton 180b was parked for 3 years and the head or gasket corroded and the coolant moved to the crankcase. Now that engine is a large, heavy paperweight!
If that 220SE's coolant was fresh many years ago, just before it was parked, it might be OK. Does the seller know if the engine will turn?

Happy Motoring, Mark

[WANT '71 280SEL]

No, he hasn't tried to start it in "many years". How high would I want to bid? I won't be able to look at it until I would pick it up. This is really scaring me, I don't think you people have any idea... I find myself checking up on it every 10 minutes to see if it goes up...
Thanks
David

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Well, just one more question, as 'Columbo' used to say. (Actually a couple of questions)
Does the radiator coolant look full and fresh and does the oil on the dipstick look OK?
(Not milky and way over-full, like my Ponton)
If so,these would be good signs,
Do you think the seller would be irritated if you asked?

Happy Motoring, Mark

[WANT '71 280SEL]

He just replied after a day and a half. I don't know if he'd be irritated personally. I'll email him now. I asked him a bunch of questions in my last reply, couple hours ago, and now I'll ask about the oil. Is that really the only thing that would cause it to seize was if the headgasket failed and let coolant into the crankcase? Is there usually a very high probability of this happening on these MB's?
Thanks
David

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I talked to a guy at UHaul. I can get a flat bed trailer, that would hold one car for $49. I told him 12 hours. It takes 4 hours to get there, but we wouldn't exceed 55 or so on the way back since it's a stock Suburban with stock brakes, etc. I think having it 12 hours would be fine. The guy at UHaul said it has to be able to tow 5k pounds, which my uncle assured me it will. as I said, I tlaked to my uncle who owns a car dealership, my boss, and told him about the car. He said I could use his shop and Suburban to get this thing going (which I knew he would, just wanted cofirmation). I already use the shop when I need it to fix any member of my family's cars. It's nice to know people, especially when they have tons of tools and a lift.

I'm really starting to get things together for this. Now for the bidding part...
Thanks
David

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Engine could just be stuck from sitting. That would be relatively easy to deal with.
I recently looked at a 280SE 4.5 that was being revived at a local repair shop after sitting in someone's garage for 20 years. Most expensive part needed was a new high-pressure fuel pump (electronic fuel injection on these V8s)
The radiator coolant looked brand new (like in my DKW)

Two years ago, I revived a neighbor's '72 220, that had been sitting in a garage for 18 years. That engine wasn't seized either, but it did need a waterpump, alternator, belts, carb rebuilt, motor mounts, one valve adjuster, fuel hoses & filter, all brake hoses, rear calipers and rotors (but the fronts were OK!) neutral switch, shifter bushings, heater blower motor and intake/exhaust manifold gaskets.

Worst case - If the coolant in that 220SE was in a neglected state when the car was parked, the head/gasket can corrode, dumping old tired coolant into the crank case and turning the engine internals into a rusty lump!

Happy Motoring, Mark

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Evcen if the engine were a mess, I could probably buy a used engine for little or almost nothing. Would >$1,000 be a bad range to stop bidding if it comes to that? It ends tomorrow at 5:30 IN time. (I think we're central), so stay tuned...
Thanks
David

EDIT: Whoops, I meant <$1,000 not more than $1,000! I'm an idiot. I'm going to check the auctio0n one more time before I go to bed. (I need to get a life)

[ctaylor738]

It's a complete crapshoot. It might come to life with some tinkering and freshening, or could be a complete disaster (engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, all of the above). If it's a disaster and you can part it out, you'll be OK financially, meaning you won't lose your shirt.

It's a lot of fun to bring a car like this back to life. Just make rational decisions and be prepared to walk away. There are lots more like this one out there.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

ctaylor, where do you think I should start with this? I'll probably have to remove the IP, is that a big job or is there anything special I should know about the procedure?
Thanks
David