I have some questions about my new, "slightly used", project W110

[roflwaffle]

It's a manual 190Dc with A/C and what looks like an unfinished restoration. It was massaged in a body shop, then painted (only the outside), but for whatever reason the work stopped there. What looks to be the air intake has oil in it but no filter and the intake plenum has a throttle (on a diesel?) and looks to be more or less complete except for a few parts. I'm not sure how complete the collection is but there are also exterior trim pieces still in their packaging in the trunk as well as a lot of rust.

Onto the questions. Where would be the best/most economical place to pick up the "Taxi cab" lights and driving/passenger lights? Has anyone test fitted other seals/weather striping from other vehicles in the hope of finding a more economical set/source? What can I use to protect/soften the vinyl seats/door cards? And lastly, for now at least, would redoing the vinyl portions of the dash like this be considered sacrilege?

[vox_incognita]

Hi,
congratulations with your new car and good luck with the restauration work!
-there is a throttle on the intake,because the injection pump is pneumatically governed-you can see the plastic or metal vacuum pipe from the IP governor housing to the intake.Make sure there is no oil or fuel traces in the tube and check the oil level in the IP(14mm bolt next to the lift pump).If not serviced for a long time,the elevated fuel/oil mix level hinders the governor performance.
-is the intake pipe removed?You need to investigate the source of oil(could be neglected air filter,which is an oil bath type-could have been overfilled,or light weight oil could have been put in there,or not serviced for a very long time,and blow-by condensed oil might have raised the level)...checkvacuum pump hose at the intake for oil traces.

-The windshield rubber seals-I`d recommend getting OEM,either from the dealer or online stores.
Get the "Early Model Years vol.3" CD from MBCA (19$$),you`ll find engine and chassis service manuals there.
Parts catalogue:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/cats/?cat=mb

[KCM]

Originally Posted by roflwaffle

What looks to be the air intake has oil in it but no filter....

Me thinks this fellow is not familiar with the oil bath air cleaner. These were used before paper element filters, and Mercedes was still using them on these models. There is supposed to be oil in the air cleaner, up to the line on the inside. The air is filtered through the oil, and the dirt accumulates on the bottom. Engine oil is used in the oil bath.

You can buy complete weatherstrip kits from various companies on the web. Personally, I think it would be much easier and cheaper in the long run to buy the right stuff than make universal seals fit (trust me, I've been there). I would definitely buy the right stuff on a car you are going to restore.

As for the dash, that vinyl gets really hard as it ages, and is nearly impossible to fix. I doubt you will find a dash cap, or even a dash pad, to fit that car. I would check into companies such as Just Dashes who will make up a new dash based on your core. I'm sure not cheap, but not sure what else you can do if it is in really bad shape.

For lights, you might be able to buy new from Mercedes, but when you find out the price, you won't want to. Used is your best choice. Get a copy of Hemmings Motor News. There are always advertisers that have used as well as new parts. There are lots of salvage yards in the southern and eastern states that advertise in there. The host of this site also has sources for used parts. Then there is always Ebay.

[tompaah7503]

x2 on the oil bath air cleaner.
Here is the assembly in all its glory:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=110104&M=621.918&CT=M&cat=020&SID=09&SGR=001&SGN=01
I never found the mark inside the housing, instead I fill up to the point where the whole lower cone part of the filter is submerged. Works well and you don't have to worry about changing paper filters!

[roflwaffle]

Whoa! The oil bath air cleaner is awesome! Like a K&N except it probably filters well.

There's also two fuel filters, and the smaller one is held on by a wingnut but instead of being glass like I've read it appears to be metallic. Did Mercedes still have the reusable smaller filter and just use a metal cover instead of a glass one since they were supposedly broken relatively easy, or is the glass portion underneath the metal cover? Also, is the vacuum pump connected to the intake for extra booster assist because it's throttled and can add a lot more than the vacuum pump can at idle?

I think I'll give different weatherstripping a shot since I can get pieces from the j-yard for free in order to test fit. Are the complete weatherstripping sets I'm seeing for ~$800 new OEM or NOS? If I can't find anything that works well I'd go for new OEM stuff but I'd be worried about NOS that's been sitting on a shelf for decades. As for the dash I'm definitely leaning towards a restoration involving fiberglass due to cost given how nice it can end up looking. Thanks for the help btw!

[todds]

I've always been curious when it comes to these. I guess it'd be hard to tell on a diesel, but do you think the oil bath type cleaners were quieter than the later paper types used on cars? I have this theory that, in addition to being generally more ruggedly built pieces, that the oil would dampen noise better.

[vox_incognita]

No ,there is no glass portion beneath the aluminum cap...just a metal mesh and several narrow orifices...I swapped it for a plastic transparent pre-filter,although I liked the looks of it.
Hmm,I haven`t tried the performance of the vacuum pump with hose detached...
The oil bath filter need special cleaning from time to time(dipping in diesel fuel+blowing with compressed air).Some solvents could damage the synthetic fibres in it,hence the diesel fuel...

[roflwaffle]

Couple more quick questions regarding this post you made vox_incognita. Are CI/CJ-4 diesel oils the same as SHPD oil for use in the engine and IP and would it be better to use 30W non-detergent oil instead of regular motor oil in the air filter or does it not matter?

[vox_incognita]

Actually,a SAE 30 oil would have approximately the viscosity of a 15w-40 @ oprating(air filter,not engine) temperature(I guess the temps never exceed 40 degrees Celsius in the summer in the filter cannister-the crankcase vent hose may raise the temp a little,but on the other hand you`ve got serious amounts of ambient air sucked).
However,in the winter the SAE 30 would be thicker than any xW-40 oil:
http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/Lubes/PDS/IOCAENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1330.asp
and
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_Super.asp

You can compare the viscosities of the two oils here:

http://www.widman.biz/Seleccion/Viscosidad/Conversiones/Graph/graph.html
As you see,one would favor the multigrade oil insted of the single grade...especially in zones with high temp. amplitudes.

Yes,the oils used in the heavy diesl equpment are referred to as Super High Performance Diesel Oils(or HDEO)...nowadays API CJ-4,CI-4.
I prefer the so-called Mixed Fleet oils that have a gasoline car approval at the same time...say MB 228.3(MB-diesel Heavy-Duty) AND 229.1(passenger cars gasoline and diesel) .These oils offer superb protection @ lower Sulphated ash levels(avoid levels >1,5 %mass in passenger cars if the oil has no gasoline or PC approval-a technical data sheet on the net will tell you.)
API CJ-4 oils have SA less than 1% and lowered phosphorus and sulphur levels to protect the expensive aftertreatment devices.
http://www.lubrizol.com/cj-4/faq.asp
...that means reduced level of ZDDPhosphate-cheap and very effective anti-wear additive,and that made many people suspicious,but the oils seem to perform very well thanks to improved basestocks and new types of additives...do a search ,plenty of info...
In short-SHPD oil with a gasoilne approval and you`re fine.You`ll see in the Diesel Discussion forum that the most preferred are Chevron Delo,Shell Rotella,Mobil Delvac ..(either syn or dino).
Never use oils with HT/HS (High Temp/High Shear) viscosity <3,5 centiPoise (usually xW-30 grade),as MB never approved their use (even in latest models).Anyway ,SHPD oils have >3,5cP HT/HS by default.

..and don`t run the car without the plastic full-flow oil filter...but probably you are aware of that

[roflwaffle]

Thanks for all the info!

[roflwaffle]

Ooooo, one more question atm... Am I correct in assuming that the pivot (the two triangular brackets, one bolts to the valve cover and has a lubed shaft that the other fits on) for the linkage between the butterfly valve on the intake and the IP has a circlip that goes on the end, and that the cable running to it from near the corner of the driver's side firewall is the idle adjuster?

[vox_incognita]

Correct.
The vertical lever is connected to the diaphragm butt bolt(has an adaptable spring inside,to ensure even idle and reduce fluctuation @ some changes in throttle/diaphragm position during operation)
However,there is a contadiction in regards of the distance on om 621-earlier versions(attachment 3)
I favor the greater distance.
So one first adjust the idle speed with engine hot(idle speed adjuster free of tension) and then attaches the vertical(additional control lever).

[vox_incognita]

IP governor internals schematic:

[roflwaffle]

Awesome info, if this is from Vol.3 it definitely emphasizes how much I need that CD from MB. Thanks again!

[vox_incognita]

Yep,gotta have the CD`s !
http://www.emercedesbenz.com/Images/Mar08/25_Mercedes_Benz_Four_Cylinder_Engines/628128_1122518_3599_2751_U30559.jpg