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  #1  
Old 12-11-2007, 02:49 PM
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My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???

Hi guys
I had to buy a new matrix for my 250 se (uk spec, no air con) I actualy ended up buying a second hand heater box from a W108 280SE 3.5. It came with a brand new motor and a leaking matrix. I had the matrix repaired at a cost of £70.00 ( the seller remburst the money for me) I bought the lot for £240.00.
The two barrels on the 280`s matrix are longer than on my 250`s but it still fits the 250 box and cables ok. I am ready to put it back into my car but have one worry and one question. The worry is that my old matrix deffinatley stops the flow of water going through, when you move the lever on the end of the barrel but the 280 one does not seem to stop it. I`m testing this by blowing down the pipe and moving the matrix levers.
The question is. Putting my heater box back will i be able to get it back in with the dash heater controls conected to the heater box cables or will i need to fit the box first, followed buy the control unit?
Buy the way. I managed to remove the heater box with the seats in but you need to be quite bendy to do this, yes it is a pig of a job and i`m not look forwerd to putting it all back. posted some pics of the repair and box to go back in..

cheers paul

P.S. still not managed to sort the engine problem out yet, not untill the heaters fixed.

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My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00555.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00556.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00557.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00558.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00559.jpg  

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  #2  
Old 12-11-2007, 02:50 PM
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controls

controls
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My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00560.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2007, 06:03 PM
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Not related to your specific question, but be sure to replace the light bulbs for the heater levers while your in that far.
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  #4  
Old 12-11-2007, 06:17 PM
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Thanks for posting photos of your W108 heater. It's certainly much different from the unit in a Fintail.
If you can reinstall the heater assembly with the controls attached, it would make things much easier. I only had to replace a friend's heater controls on his '72 280SE, with AC, and it was a pain wrestling with stiff cables, while fitting tiny screws, clips and washers, through the radio and speaker openings.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2007, 11:43 AM
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The same thing happened to me on the except reverse. My original barrels were longer and the replacement barrels on the heater core were shorter. Everything fitted fine but the cable operation was not perfect. I thought that it would not be a problem but it was. Not enough heat. I had the heater core repaired at a radiator shop and replaced the seals. Then I had to go through the whole process again in changing out the heater core. Now, with the job done I have a warm car. Don't make the same mistake as I did.
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  #6  
Old 12-12-2007, 12:58 PM
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Interesting.. At the moment i can blow through the matrix with ease,no matter where the levers are set. Maybe i would end up with the heat always on! Not a bad thing in this country (UK) but then i would have to fix the sunroof to let the heat out. Any other ideas? Paul
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  #7  
Old 12-12-2007, 01:36 PM
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Don't forget to replace the o-rings that are in the heater core valves/barrels. You do not want those to fail after you put everything back together.
Good Luck
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70 280 SL
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2007, 12:23 PM
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Valves barrels siezed

Ok, i have got some new bulbs and have taken a look at the valves barrels. I managed to remove one from my old matrix but the ones on my new matrix have siezed, which has lead to the square section that the screw goes through snapping off on both sides. Left and right. So im thinking that since my matrix is quite easy to blow through, the valves are stuck on open, meaning that the matrix will always have hot water going through it. I cant be bothered to try and get this fixed, so does anybody think it is possible to fit an inline valve on the flow/return pipe in the engine compartment? this way i can switch off the flow of water at the flick of a switch.
I think if the matrix goes again, i will fork out the £540.00 for a new one but for now i just want to get my car back together.

Any input would be most welcome Paul
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  #9  
Old 12-14-2007, 01:19 PM
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After all that effort to extract the heater, I would certainly attempt to repair those valves myself before putting it back together. Otherwise, assuming the stuck valves won't also develop leaks, a manual shut-off valve in the under-hood heater hose would certainly work for now.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2007, 10:38 AM
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Smile done

Put the heater assembely back in today. Everything seems ok. No leaks or problems. I did not manage to get the matrix valves out. They are well and truley stuck. The fan works perfect (quite noisey) but i have a feeling that they are. It is nice to have heat and keep my windows clear. Tommorow i will put the dash back together and the rest of the heater ducts.
The answer to my own question about connecting the cable controler and fitting it with the heater box is yes. You have to fold it over onto the top of the box and unfold it as the box goes in, it took about 5 mins to get it all back in and fastened with the three fixing bolts. The main obstical was the wiring running under the front of the dash so i pulled it away to the outside area of the dash. Its nice to be driving her again.

Paul
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2007, 06:47 AM
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Did you happen to take more pictures? I think if you could write up a "procedure" it would be invaluable to all us w108 owners!
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2007, 04:09 PM
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I will post some more pics later. I got my step by step info from ebay. Not sure if you have a similar seller in the US but if you go to ebay uk and type in this item no. it will give you an example of what this guy is reproducing. I bought a manual that covers all pasenger cars from 1958/1969. This is great because it covers my 220seb also. Item no. 250196591216

Cheers Paul
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2007, 04:50 PM
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Smile More photos

I have posted some more photos of the bits that need to go back in my W108 250se to complete the installation of my heater box. Some pics of the dash also. I put the crome sourround that fits over the heater controls back on today, the nuts that go on the back are a pig to get at. I used a 10mm mini socket and ratchet and refitted the cig lighter. You will notice on the pic of bits to go back on, that i have put new foam on the heater chanels that wrap around the gearbox channel. I also put new foam on the flaps inside the heater box. Hope these pics help some poor bast--d who has to go through this.

Paul

pics comming soon
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2007, 05:00 PM
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the pics
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My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00642.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00644.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00659.jpg  
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2007, 05:02 PM
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more pics
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My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00643.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00646.jpg   My 1967 250SE heater matrix ???-dsc00651.jpg  

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