73 450sl purchase question

[rosenfe]

Car has200k. At 168k and 10years ago, valve job,new chain guide and tensioners. Front suspension done at same mileage. Window out paint and rust repair 10 years ago.lots of wearitems replaced,power steering pump resealed 10 years ago.seats redone and stuffed. Ac and original radio work Current owner for 4 years and minimal use and no further maintenance done other than record radiator. Tires about 6 years old. He wants about13k. What do you think

[Sugar Bear]

Color affects value on these. Is it a popular color and DO YOU like it. If I was buying it I'd like to know the extent of the rust, where it was and how it was repaired.

Start it cold and listen for noises and watch for blue smoke from the tailpipe. I know you said the heads were done but these were known for worn valve guides and valve seals. Due to the age, mileage and price, a compression test would be nice.

Does it have high end tires or cheap ones? This is an indicator of how it was maintained. Ask the seller what fuel and oil was used. Should be a branded premium.

[rosenfe]

I forgot to add trans was rebuilt at 168k. Valve guides were done with head. Current owner of car for the past 4 years has done minimal fluid changes. Body rust work was done by a reputable shop along with paint. It is a pale yellow-not my favorite. I think price is high

[Tony H]

Here's one that seems comparable and has a few needs: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-mercedes-benz-450sl-78/

There have been a few low mile ones in the 20k-high 30k range. Condition is everything. I have my sights on a early R107 when I get things together.

[cth350]

at that price, the cosmetics have to be really pretty. No milk chrome trim (which is actually anodized aluminum, so it's complicated to fix). The interior has to be very presentable.

The underside of the car has to be clean neat and very tidy. That is where the rust starts to be visible and that means things have rusted and rotted through.

-CTH

[meltedpanda]

That’s a little steep but sounds like a car worth bargaining for. Sounds like the major items have been done, but sitting is not good for any car. As mentioned need to see hear and feel how it drives. Could be a 8-10K car IMHO

[subforry]

Another to compare
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/los-angeles-1975-mercedes-benz-450sl/7697599353.html

Seems like these are plentiful, especially if you are willing to get a post 1975 and deal with getting a smog check.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/valencia-1978-mercedes-benz-450sl/7704785751.html

Also, this is not a commentary on the car you are looking at, but I think these are of the type where you can always buy better and the price is soft. What about 560SL?
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/redondo-beach-mercedes-benz-560-sl/7705090195.html

[rosenfe]

Forgot to mention trans was rebuilt approx 30k and 10 years ago.I like the early ones,small bumpers,no air pump , cats etc,but body has 200k and current owner has not done much in 4 years. I too think it’s too high.There are plenty for sale but if you ask when was brake fluid,power steering fluid,differential fluid,belts changed etc, you get silence. 560sl are in the 20k range,if very good they go up from there.I’m going to wait and see if he sells,if not in a few weeks I’ll go look.Would be nice to get ppi with compression test

[Tomguy]

If you *really* want a 107, a 73 450 would likely be the second best option to a nice 560. The 73 should be pre-reactor, and D-Jet powered (if truly a 73). This would make it the second most powerful US spec 107, and roughly the same upkeep costs as a 560.

While it has good maintenance history these cars do NOT like sitting. You mention the brake fluid flush, if it's been sitting with older fluid the master cylinder may need replacing, as well as lines and calipers. If it's not been driven it doesn't matter how recently the trans was rebuilt (in terms of miles), it'll likely leak. Same for the engine, steering box, etc. For the asking price, in terms of miles, this car had better be 100% leak free, and drive like a new car. Otherwise, I'd pass on one that's had a potential rust repair history in favor of one that's never had any rust (or that has original condition VERY MINOR non-perforating rust you can easily have professionally repaired and document completely with pictures of before and after)

[rosenfe]

I wanrt a 2 seat roadster and have had many older Mercedes diesels and gas cars including a 380sl and 2 early (73) 107. Looking at other options( Miata,boxster,mr2 etc) ,but they seem too modern,but probably safer ,handle better and fun as well.There is something appealing about old 107,114 cars.I have a 72 250.

[querelajo]

For me it’s all about original overall condition — at least when I seek out a car. I do so in order to decide for myself whether I want to preserve or restore or modify a car. While not an expert, I am adverse to corrosion rot and rust issues and favor original paint over any non-factory applied repainting especially on these Mercedes Benz cars from the 1970-2000.

I own three and 2 are long term keepers while 1 is a retirement project car that is as close to the last car my parents owned but which I wasn’t able to find 35 years later after the estate attorney sold it to facilitate administering the trust.

I have this project car continuously for sale in the SF Bay Area — a very original 1980 57k 450sl — and while I’m not going to use this thread response to try and sell it — I do recommend that you check it out on CL to get an idea of what I consider original overall condition — my recommendation to you when seeking out what are now 40/50+ year old cars that are no doubt of high quality design, engineering and construction but subject to the ravages of time, elements and wear…

[rosenfe]

Thanks for the info on your car. I am avoiding that generation of climate control with servo. Where are the original rims?