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#1
07-31-2023, 08:55 PM
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Replace Crankshaft Seal Pull the P.S. Pump ? W108 72
Thought this was a Simple Job ? Any Hints appreciated
So ? the Job Intended is to replace the front Crank Seal sounds simple yes ? Motor is a 72 280SE Gas 6 Cylinder ICE with everything on it AC / PS / all the normal Stuff W. Pump / CL.Fan / Idler a Bunch of Pulleys and 3 Belts The good News is that I just installed The Motor but not the Radiator / Clutch Fan Etc > so no need to pull all that > BAD NEWS IS : Looks like to pull the Harmonic Balancer Front Pulley with a Large diameter rear portion making it impassible to Pass right by the P.S. Pump Pulley etc. ( Do I really need that big daddy Front Balancer ? smooth Idle special ? ) So ? first you have to Pull the Power Steering Pump so the Harmonic Balancer can pass by it as the front of the Crank Front Snub sticks out making that unlikely it looks Sounds easy humm but pulling the P.S.Pump is not that easy > It has 3 Bolts holding a Metal Cage / Bracket that the Pump sits in > & if I have it right first you must remove the "Power Steering Pulley" in order to remove at least 2 of those Bolts & you need a Puller to get that Pulley off *  * ANY TRICKS TO AN EASY REMOVAL ? Ya Looks like I need a mini Puller *#!Once a Bolt is removed at the P.S. Bracket Front it looks like you must use a 1/4 drive with a Hex Drive to remove a second Hex Drive bolt at the rear of the PS Pump bracket by going through the Front Bolt Hole ? Perhaps you can use a Wobble Socket with a Hex drive down from an angle approach from above ? So if I can get it removed ( putting the whole Motor in was easier BYW ) Then Finally I can get back to the Crank Pulley Seal Job objective humm wondering if some nerd used Lock-tight on the Crank Bolt Don't really know if the SEAL was leaking for sure but I definitely viewed and removed lots of dried and wet Oil residue over the "entire Area"and having changed such seals on earlier Mercedes with no difficultly thought that now is the time before installing the Rest of the front of the Car's Mechanics's and discovering Yup its leaking lol . I thought I would drive the Car awhile since its a nice and rust free 70 SE Body and I don't have a affliction for oil leaks so try to fix it Any tips appreciated if you know a short Cut or 2 to perhaps a Easy way to remove the P.S. Pump "Front Pulley" I know I can't heat it up to help remove because that would Bake that Seal making a New leak. UPDATE I Am wondering if I can simply loosen that Front bolt on the P.S. Pump and slide the pump Over belt removed allowing the Harmonic Balancer to then pass by the Pump for removal ? ( I read how many just cut the belt off and pray on a new one with a screwdriver & and or turning the Motor Over as you pry the belt on ? ( I did loosen the bolt but the Pump does not budge at all yet perhaps I need to loosen what looks like a threaded adjustment on the side first ??? anyone know ? I did clean the Motor before installing it sort of spring cleaning in the Summer Pic of the Area >> Last edited by aluminum; 08-02-2023 at 11:28 PM. 
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#2
08-01-2023, 02:32 PM
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The PS pulley is hard to get off and hard to get back on. There are 2 styles one with tapered shaft and one straight.DO NOT use a puller on the outside of pulley it will break or bend the pulley. I remember spending a lot of time getting the pulley back on.
gentle heat end of pulley and smack side with hammer maybe will loosen. other ppls ideas: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/w108-v8-power-steering-pump.1285393/ https://**************.com/problems/engine/removing-a-stubborn-power-steering-pump-pulley *mercedesource* he shows that you grab pulley by a small groove in the center of pulley! The crank bolt is something like 200 ft/lbs torque. use a 1/2 impact gun and it will come right off.
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#3
08-01-2023, 02:53 PM
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a:
1) Remove the six bolts that retain the pulleys, and the pulleys. An impact wrench is preferred for removing those bolts; the hexes may strip out anyway. 2) The harmonic dampener is also retained by those bolts. It may be just possible to tilt the dampener enough to sneak it out from behind the PS pump bracket.
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#4
08-02-2023, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Thanks Guys all Good tips ( I am worried about stripping the 6 small Hex Bolts ! and damaging the valve train with lots or Counterclockwise pressure of any type ) I got a P.S. Pump Pulley < Puller > ( Made for that type of Job was the right one but not ok for a early Mercedes Pump) Puller Has a Hardened Edge made to fit into that 60 Thousands or so wide Grove on the sort of Snub of the P.S. Pump Pulley just behind the ( removed ) retaining Nut > a Good tool but not made for a Mercedes some other Car ? ( from the free tool lending program at OReillys Parts store ( about the only one around here Lol ) But it did not Fit a Early Mercedes > As This was a Basket Case Purchase Sure enough was a Good condition P.S. Pump Pulley in the Trunk So As Such I got another Puller a 7 Ton 3 Arm that reached around the pulley edgealready knowing I would ruin the Pulley most likely > in spite of the Penetrating Oil from Both sides about 30 Hrs before I screwed it down about 1/2 Pressure by my feel LOL most likely about 60 Lbs Torque and Nothing so F*** it I continued until the Pulley was badly bent in now at 3 points LOl and did not Budge at all Nothing : Previously I had Hammered carefully all around that Snub Area from different angles also So Now Not wanting to damage the P.S. Pump Seal I applied Heat with a "Propane Torch" so that's moderate heat on the P.S. Pump Snub ( Puller still attached full force ) and after about only 10 seconds in 2 Area's then midway to the Third area POP OFF SHE COMES and I felt the Pump shaft right away and it was only a little Warm Not hot at all but the Pulley ( Now all Bent to Crap was Plenty Hot> ( would not have gone this route if I did not have the extra pulley ) In other words all your advice was correct in general and more you guys are smart Thanks > Is no way you can snake the the Harmonic Balancer Outer Diameter past the P.S.Pump housing / I was thinking I might do that also was thinking that also So its off Now *** Now I have discovered that the Crankshaft Bolt is Locked on like " Gorilla Snot " and will not move LOL ( what next ) Placed a 1/2 inch long breaker Bar with a 4 Foot Cheater Pipe I use and after locking the Crank through a Hole in the Balancer to the Alternator Bracket it would not Move at all First I tried my 1/2 Stanley Impact with 3/8 Air line @ about 110 LBS Nothing > Cranked the Pressure to 155 Lbs still nothing I have 2 Impact Guns the the Stanley is about 1/3 rd stronger ( a 1 Inch gun most likely would work ) ** I Think that the Washer behind the Nut under all that pressure May be Holding the Nut from releasing perhaps and needs heat, also " bolt threadlocker " may have been used a guess on my part ? I am strong and I know when to back off before I brake the socket currently on the Crankshaft Nut let alone damage the Nut it needs a 27 MM impact socket but I have not yet removed the Crank Pulley try for that tomorrow As I am worried about the Timing Chain and all involved turning Counter clockwise for 1 Thing but also I need to remove the Outer Pulley before trying something else > This Nut is on their tight > to place a 27 Mm Impact Socket you need to remove the outer Pulley first because Impact Sockets are Thick not passing the Pulley Hole until removed ( Currently on is a thin-wall 1 & 1/16th socket ) and so far I have not Evan got the Smaller Metric Hex nuts (6) loose yet they are not moving with my folding hardened metric Hex drive set I am going to need a Hex socket on this thing for the outer Pulley Hex Bolts I think as they also are not moving yet Beyond that I think the problem in part is the Washer behind the Nut gets Stuck with Corrosion as well all the torque I like this video myself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJTjit9W4oY Some Pics of the now ruined Pulley and the right type tools used or tried to use but turns out not for a early Mercedes darn Last edited by aluminum; 08-02-2023 at 11:39 PM.
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#5
08-02-2023, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
I like this video myself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJTjit9W4oY Some Pics of the now ruined Pulley and the tools used or tried to use
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#6
08-03-2023, 11:05 AM
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Any reason why you need to separate the pump from the bracket and can't simply move that whole assembly to the side? -CTH
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#7
08-03-2023, 12:08 PM
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Bracket Assembly
Quote:
Obviously an engineering Mishap : They could have made the "entire assembly " so you could simply have slid it with belt removed to the side then you could have removed the Harmonic Balancer no longer impeded by the P.S. Pump Housing in the way. The Bracket Assembly is very well made super strong however you can't remove it until the Pump is first removed. 1 of the Rear mounting Bolts is a Hex Drive that you access by first removing a front Bolt then with a Long metric Allen Key Hex drive via the front bolt Hole once removed > IE: its the "Bracket Assembly" that's in the Way of the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer blocking its removal as it sticks out past the front side of the Harmonic Balancer.
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#8
08-03-2023, 10:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Frank Reiner;4285440]a:
1) Remove the six bolts that retain the pulleys, and the pulleys. An impact wrench is preferred for removing those bolts; the hexes may strip out anyway. Great Tip : After trying to remove those 6 Hex Bolts with a Strong Manual Approach with them Not budging a single bit with your Advice used a hardened Metric Hex drive 6 MM I think with about 120 Lbs Air & Impact they came right out Easy P easy The 27 MM Crank Nut now exposed I heated " Propane torch only " both the Nut and the Large washers (3) quite a lot of Heat about 5 Mins then off it came (First time it moved at all since this project!) Same pressure a tad more about 120 Lbs 3/8s Line < It came Loose slowly stopping for the air to build back up a couple of times Small tanks > The heat did it I am sure about that . Used a Thick Wall Impact Socket with Stanley Impact 1/2 Drive it worked hard but did the job > Same tool for reinstall I think about 150 LBS Torque is Normal But its easy to judge as you know what it took to remove and when using the same tools mostly idiot proof just put it back same pressure > I noted No dried up Thread locker threads where clean > Used a 5 Ton Puller to remove also with Air Impact > It comes off slow Mercedes Has Tight specs a good thing Back of Pulley and Harmonic Balancer where Oil soaked as I expected & no doubt seal was leaking some anyway common I have noted such issues on these 6 Cylinders ( the Timing Chain and gear are right inside of this seal so huge amounts of Oil all around ) Some installed Pics > Just started the Seal with a large round plastic pipe > then with it about 60 thousands in knocked the rest of the Way in with a Wood Block Via Hammer after a Tad of Aviation Permatex on outer edge of seal, none needed its the inner Lip of the Seal however That's what leaks when it leaks not the outer edge I find however some sealant ( outer edge ) is a good thing But you don't want it leaking so a tad of sealant along the outer edge may save you a Redo This is not a not a fast easy job at all but not that bad I expect Flat rate is 4 to 5 Hrs but that's for someone who has done it a few time already >DIY more like a Days work easy / The Job all in all is an extra Hour due to the P.S. Pump R & R Last edited by aluminum; 08-03-2023 at 10:22 PM.
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#10
10-17-2023, 10:46 PM
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I sincerely hope the water pump was far away from having to be replaced, as its replacement would require a revisit - the harmonic balancer would have to come off to remove the water pump
__________________
 Don't Chrome them; polish them
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#11
10-18-2023, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Your " Dead Wrong" water pump is simple to replace you don't need to remove the Crank Pulley as the water pump has its own bolts and is simple to replace ***** if you look close you can see the water pump bolts in Photo # 2 Your info / Comment is incorrect : The water Pump bolts into a Housing that to replace that Housing you do have to remove the Crank pulley but just the pump ? nope Is a water " by pass tube " runs from the head to water Pump in that same Housing that when broken off in that housing then if you cant get the broken piece out then you may need to replace the Housing or you can tap out the Hole carefully right in the car and replace that By Pass Bolt that has a Water hole in it ( they brake very easy ) ( if you get a few metal Shaving into the water system don't worry about that but you could flush out the system if you want ) Last edited by aluminum; 10-18-2023 at 10:14 PM.
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