1967 Mercedes 250 S Standard Trans Output Shaft Nut

[aluminum]

I am going to try to sell Sell my 1967 250 S Mercedes Standard Trans
(4-Spd.) Sedan and the Output Shaft Nut is Loose I expect and the Speedometer needle only reads on De Acceleration or if you feather the Gas
pedal very Lightly >> I expect the Rear Output Nut is loose on the main shaft ( see Pic's )


I believe it takes a 30 MM 12Pt socket but I don't know if I can use a
"Perhaps " Thin wall socket ? or if I can perhaps just grind one down ?

"or if I must buy some special trans Tool to use 1 time only humm


I want to do it right in the Car IE: Remove Driveshaft and tighten Nut /

I have read you Can use a impact gun .


I have read torque is 88 Lbs



<<<< So the Real Question is >>>> what is the simple way to get a socket on it if possible without buying some costly Tranny Tool can I grind down a socket > I did read about using a Hammer and a drift can I just tighten it with that perhaps ? or the nut going to Crumble or brake apart ?


NOT Having looked at it yet I expect I can just remove the drive shaft and with the Car in 1st Gear and the hand Brake on or wheels blocked simply tighten this Nut >>Getting a Socket or Drift on the Nut is the Problem
***
To Sell the Car with this issue is hard because the Speedometer is an IN YOUR FACE issue driving it and already I had a Buyer drive it and complain about it < However my remedy was to sell them a different Car >
To Not Fix it would require a significant discount and make for a hard sale for sure and a significant discount is not my Cuppa Tea

[t walgamuth]

I ground down a socket once to get in someplace, not sure what, but it woried ok. I still have the socket. I have gdround around on man y things in my day with satisfactor y resuots.

[aluminum]

Ya thanks so perhaps a Thin Wall Socket ?/ I was thinking perhaps to take a flat piece of metal just the right width ground with a U Center shape leaving 2 Points on each end about 6 inches long or so & maybe a hole in the metal ( other end ) to place a bar or 1/2 inch drive extension and try while pushing inward tighten it > LOL
However with 88Lbs Required most likely that would not work beyond 20 Lbs
Beyond that with a socket and beaker Bar wedged in place most likely in the right gear you could also perhaps tap the starter to tighten ( not recommended I know >
? is that why some call it backyard ? LOL

I wondering Looking at the Photo if your suppose to once tight Crush in an edge or some part of the Nut to lock it from braking loose ?

[t walgamuth]

Originally Posted by aluminum

Ya thanks so perhaps a Thin Wall Socket ?/ I was thinking perhaps to take a flat piece of metal just the right width ground with a U Center shape leaving 2 Points on each end about 6 inches long or so & maybe a hole in the metal ( other end ) to place a bar or 1/2 inch drive extension and try while pushing inward tighten it > LOL
However with 88Lbs Required most likely that would not work beyond 20 Lbs
Beyond that with a socket and beaker Bar wedged in place most likely in the right gear you could also perhaps tap the starter to tighten ( not recommended I know >
? is that why some call it backyard ? LOL

I wondering Looking at the Photo if your suppose to once tight Crush in an edge or some part of the Nut to lock it from braking loose ?

Please No to using the car to tighten.

[aluminum]

Its a Mechanical Machine > what works works what does not doesn't
This is really a live forum Lol

[aluminum]

So ??? anybody Know what 12 Point 30 MM Socket will fit " INSIDE " in order to tighten that Nut up ? I suspect it requires some Special Mercedes Transmission tool for $349.00
Lol that means I will have to grind down what ? perhaps a Thin wall 3/8's drive 30 MM 12 point socket ? humm who says Old Cars great Lol

[aluminum]

[QUOTE=aluminum;4312525]So ??? anybody Know what 12 Point 30 MM Socket will fit " INSIDE " in order to tighten that Nut up ?

[cth350]

this should do it... https://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?products_id=1469

The key to success was adding "bmw" and "thin wall" to the google search.

-CTH

[dobrodan]

I've watched this thread hoping that someone else would provide this info. I can't stand this any longer. The output shaft three legged flange is secured with a slot nut and should be torqued to 59 lbs. I've attached pix of a slot nut socket and two bad pix from a 108 service manual, one showing a manual trans and the other an automatic. The job is described in the sections on removing and replacing the rear trans covers. The MB socket part number shown for the manual trans is 115 589 01 07. The socket part number shown for the auto trans is 186 589 11 07. The socket pictured is out of one of my tool boxes and may or may not fit this slot nut. It is pictured for illustration purposes. In a pinch I've used a long drift and have been able to tighten the nut enough to get the speedo to function properly. The lock washer is malleable and can be bent out of the slot in the nut to tighten the nut, then bent back in the proper location. If you remove the nut completely you will be able to lubricate the back of it where it rides on the seal. Even though there are two part numbers I believe that they are the same, and probably the same as the pinion nut socket. Sorry about the pix in landscape mode. Peachparts did that automatically.

[aluminum]

[QUOTE=dobrodan;4312831]I've watched this thread hoping that someone else would provide this info. I can't stand this any longer. The output shaft three legged flange is secured with a slot nut and should be torqued to 59 lbs. I've attached pix of a slot nut socket and two bad pix from a 108 service manual


Thanks for the great info: Short of tearing it down ( Not done yet )

This is great information & accordingly the retaining Nut is ( Perhaps) Not a 12 Point Nut at all ? but a 4 point Humm


Going to a Poker Tournament for 2 weeks where I Like the Side Cash games but after that I well Drop the Driveshaft and explore what it looks like >>
Your information to use a drift driving it inward sounds like it would work and I have heard of that before but not with your good detail . Yes the Spedo only works on "Deceleration" but not "Steady" or Acceleration LOL its been that way since I have owned it and I entertained the thought of a insurance discount lol however then I discovered the very low cost of State Farm Classic Car Ins .
Thank You for the Info is for this sort of Gold Car .... a Buyer spoke right up about the Spedo lol and I am going to move it on down the line since I picked up an exceptional 1970 SE 2.8 but with a bad motor best one I have ever owned by far with original paint most likely a $15 K example easy> All the"Quad" Vertical Headlight models have just about disappeared

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by cth350

this should do it... https://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?products_id=1469

The key to success was adding "bmw" and "thin wall" to the google search.

-CTH

Ya Google is Great Thanks Again CTH if my Nut is like I posted ( 12Point ) that would work I think


Still fooling with the 70 SE I picked up I set the Valve Clearance on the head
(2.8 SE Motor ) Today before installing it < with the machine Shop work I hope that cures the water in the Oil issue ( is a 72 Motor I Picked up ) I really would like to drive that Car the only way to know if I really like it...
Best one I have seen Yet Zero Rust and the paint is still Very Good original