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#1
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114 Coupe REAR window motor access? HELP ME CHUCK!
I've figured out (more or less) how to take the interior panels off the DOORS to get to the window mechanisms, but I haven't tried yet to get to the rear windows. I haven't been able to find instructions for this procedure on the web or on this site.
Do you know of any instructions, or can you tell me the basic procedure? Thanks! Catrinus 73 280C |
#2
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Kind of late here ...
But you start by removing the rear seat cushion and back, as I recall - stay tuned.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#3
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OK - went and looked- it's starting to come back.
Rear seat and backrest out. Start by taking out bolts under the front of the seat, then there are bolts for the back in the trunk. Then prise out the window switch and disconnect it and remove the armrest. Remove the chrome plate at the front the window and all small screws along the front edge of the panel. Then the panel should just pull down and out from under the lip of the cover inside of the window. The main holding points are the lip and the armrest screws. Those motors are pretty solid - are you sure it's not a switch, fuse, or wiring problem?
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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Well, I maybe did jump to conclusions. I figured that if the front switch didn't make it work, and the rear switch didn't make it work that it must be the motor. I'll do some research first and check the fuse (if it's one in the main fuse box, all of them were replaced) or the relay. Where would the window relays be in this car? I have the shop manual CD but I couldn't find much in the way of electrics there.
Catrinus |
#5
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The fuses are in boxes on on the firewall on the pass side. There are three boxes on mine. I am not sure what goes where, but it is a place to start. I think the windows take a 24A fuse.
You can also test the switches by prising them out of the console and plugging the non-working window socket into a switch that you know is good. It would be odd for a rear window motor to fail, because they generally don't get used much - it is generally the driver's window that fails first. When you tried the rear switch, did you try the override button on the console in the "up" and "down" position?
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#6
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You know, another source just mentioned to me that the Fnt R and the Rear L are on the same fuse, and the Fnt L and Rear R are on another. Since it's both my Fnt R and Rear L that don't work, it's another indication I'd better test the fuses first. I thought I was getting power to the swich, though, but I'll triple check in a minute.
Catrinus |
#7
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I did confirm that the fuses are fine. I figured out which ones they were, cleaned up the contacts, and even switched fuses. Same problem: I can hear the motor click (very softly) but nothing happens. Should I check the relay? I'm not even sure a) where they are (I can see a row of relays in the interior under the glove box but don't know if they are the right relays) and b) how does one check a relay? I have a volt/ohm meter and also a portable o'scope (not that I really know how to use it). I can't even figure out how the relays disconnect. Or shall I assume the relays are fine if I can hear the motors click?
The hard part about getting to the door window motor is that the window is stuck in the "up" position and all the instructions I can find for removing the motor assumes the window is stuck in the "down" position. Help! Catrinus |
#8
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Much to my surprise, I discovered that there are both a "relay" and a "change over relay" shown in the parts book. They are the older style with a rounded top and two mounting holes. No evidence of these on my car. But I think some of the '73's got the newer "ice cube" relays that sit behind the glove box.
On the CD, they do not show a PW diagram for the '73, but the '74 shows a single relay fed by a 4 guage red wire off the battery bus, and then red/blue to the fuses. There is also a brown ground, and a black/violet wire running to fuse 4. Reading, the diagram, though, it looks like the relay feeds the fuses, not the other way around. So all windows would be affected if it was bad. If both your RF and LR windows are out, you have some sort of problem on Fuse 18's circuit.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
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