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Old 11-10-2003, 02:32 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Posts: 57
A Few Questions...

Hey Guys,
After a bit of reading over the site, I decided to join. I have a '69 114 250CE and i have a few questions...

Firstly, how do i go about removing the dash? i'm familiar with the stupid "nut" etc. and all the little screws, and the annoying proceedure. how do i go about removing the oil guage etc (looks like a pressure line, instead of a sender unit and electrical). i can see me getting it out, and spraying oil everywhere. Anyone have any ideas on dashboard facelifts? sorta replacing chrome rings and bulbs etc?

Secondly, i have a squeek from my right rear, going around left hand corners only. i have recently replaced my halfshafts (joint between the diff and rear hubs) and that may be the culprit, however, are there any other options? (wheel bearings in the rear?) seems strange it would do it only on some corners though.

my cam chain is noisy also, is this a simple proceedure, or am i best to leave it to a professional (i'm aware that incorecctly installing a chain will have very bad consequences)

Thanks in Advance
Russ.

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W114 1969 250CE - M110
W114 1972 280S - M110
W116 1979 450SEL - M117
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Old 11-10-2003, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
Do you mean the dash, or just the instrument pod? The pod is held in by friction fit, helped by a rubber gasket. You need to unhook the speedometer cable from underneath, and then you can slide the unit out enough to unscrew the oil line with a 10 mm wrench The old-type temperature guage may need to be removed from the cylinder head to get enough slack - it does not detach from the pod. After that, there is a large plug with most of the wiring in the center that you need to unhook, and a couple of wires in the upper right hand corner.

Best thing to do on the chrome trim is to buy a used pod and use the best of each.

Replacing the dash is a huge job. You can buy "caps" that will cover up the cracks.

On your rear end noise, check to make sure that the sway-bar links are in good shape. Rear wheel bearing replacement is quite involved.

Cam chain change on the 110 engine is a lot of work but not complicated so long as you follow the instructions. If you have AC, getting the tensioner out so that it can be "reset" is a pain. You need 19mm and 17mm hex key sockets to get the tensioner out.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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