just got 1979 300SD I love it but need some help on somethings

1. a/c not working def(blower works) but no a/c nor heater i push the button and nothing.

2. rear driver door thing has a tear on one of the rubbers (so all door will not lock or open by vacume?)

3. car will not turn off by ignition (KEY car keeps running) but turns on and all else if fine.

Q"
will the door lock tear in the rubber make the car run ruff, cause the a/c not to work and keep the door from locking?

just got this car and i love working on it. me and the junk yard are one. pls any info would help.. This is going to be a WVO Veggie-Benz Car

i own a 76 300d, but i dont really know that much about them.
BUT.... number 3 sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. do your vacuum powered locks work? if not you've definatly got a leak somewhere. with my car the engine cuts off fine. however the vacuum locks don't work. prompts me to think my leak is in the lock system somewhere

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76 300D 108,110 miles
99 Saturn sl1 80,000 miles - moms
91 Grand Marquis 45,000 miles - Grandparents
97 Ford F150 - 16,000 miles - Grandparents
73 Ford Monarch (parked 65,000 miles - Grandparents

If you just got it and you "love" it, why are you going to trash this noble car with garbage fuel?

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Yes i did find a rear driver door vacume thing has a tear on one of the rubbers (so all door will not lock by vacume)

3. car will not turn off by ignition (KEY) but all else if fine.

will the door tear in the vacume up and down rubber lift make the car start up ruff and cause the a/c not to work.(Blower works when def is pushed on).

I have read alot about this and clean air and free fuel sound good to me/
and a freind has ran on wvo for 15,000 mil no porbs yet..

This is just me talking, but why don't you do some serious reading and research such as on the infopop forum before you jump in and send this classic to an untimely demise. If done carefully and properly, a Mercedes will tolerate WVO. But, I am very reluctant to experiment with my benzes . When and if I do, it will be my rebuildable VW that will be the test bed. Unless, your W116 is nearly knackered, anyway, then, have at it (there goes another one)

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

i like your thinking You maybee right i do it to a old vw its less costly.
this old 300SD is build to last. its a keeper..

still need help..thanks

OK I'll try to help. Fix the door rubber first (or just plug the door circuit at the connections at the brake booster) . Lack of vacuum may be causing your shutoff problem. If that does not fix it, then you have a bad vacuum shutoff (where the brown vacuum line enters the back of the Injection pump). I haven't touched my A/C yet, so I can't answer that question. Do a search here- these issues have all been discussed.

If you got a rust free Nevada car, count yourself lucky. Please don't abuse it.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

It sounds to me like either the vacuum pump is not working or you have a massive leak somewhere in the system. The car uses vacuum to lock the doors, shut off the engine and regulate the climate control. If you have normal brakes, the pump is probably OK and you should look for a vacuum leak.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

At performance parts, you can get a rebuild kit for the door vacuum pods. Log on to their site and requst a free catalog. Where the main vacuum line goes to the booster there will be a tee right before that feeds everything else. Block with a golf tee, everything but the one that goes to the shut off. Then enable one at a time until you figure out which one is causing the issue.

Oh, and if you have brakes then you have vacuum. When there is no vacuum assist you have to press real real hard on the brake pedal to stop the car.

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Your car has an engine driven vacuum pump unlike later MBs.
Get a manual vacuum pump (Sears) with gauge. Disconnect the vacuum lines to the doors using some rubber vacuum line and golf tees. Check engine for shut off. If engine works, use the manual vacuum pump to isolate the problem starting at the trunk.
Do your power brakes work? If yes, then your vacuum pump and ti's check valve are OK.
When disconnecting the small blue check valves by the master brake cyl., watch out you don't break the check valve necks. OEM check valves are $10 each. Diesel Giant sells vacuum parts and others but I do not have my list on hand.
So if you work for the trunk lock vacuum switch and it is OK, plug the lines at the master cyl. and again check the engine shut off.
BTW, I'm doing the same repair on the same car. I found a replacement check valve at AutoStop (it was a generic part on the rack) for $4.95 each. On neck is slightly larger but that helped seal the slightly streatched 4 way.
I have to get mine back on the road next week so If you have questions, pm me.
Back to the door lock. You should be able to block (golf tee) the line at the door or leading to the door and still have a working system on the other doors.
Good luck and post your results.
Check out the Diesel Giant site.
I burn 5 micron WVO cut with RUG.

door locks are working had to fix rip seals in two of the doors i got them from the junk yard, the A/c is now blowing hot air from not working at all. car still will not shut off by key?? any ideas thanks for all the help all of you make this real Ez for me to fix my self

Vaccum pump diaphragm is probably shot. Does the car require a lot of brake pressure effort?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

no barke is fine

I just had the freeze plug go out on the 300sd going home from work got a new one and with a little work about 3 hrs(would have been Ez er if it was daytime) got it out and put the new one in. the part was $4.00 from mercedes-benz but can get for .67 cents on line its a little pian in the a#$ all this in a gas station parking lot.