W114-115 and W107 front suspension mount replacement.

Steps 1 and 2.

1. Order the kit from Phil at Fastlane.
2. Use penetrating oil at these spots. Both sides. They are, rear bushing, front bushing, lower shock attaching bolts and stabilizer link. Give these a shot a couple of times a day until the parts arrive.

Attached Thumbnails

       

Here are all the tools you will need. A floor jack, bottle jack will do as well, a set of safety stands, penetrating oil, 2 medium straight bladed screwdrivers, a 13 mm combo wrench, a 13mm socket, a 15mm socket, ratchet wrench, a 6" and a 3" extension.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Support the car, both sides, here. The front suspension needs to hang free and the wheels 3 or 4 inches from the ground.

Loosen the stabilizer links to here. Use the 13mm socket and combo wrench. Pic #2

Place floor jack and put pressure on the lower control arm. Remove shock mounting bolts. 13mm socket. Lower jack and control arm will lower below shock bolts.


One side at a time, loosen, NOT remove, the subframe mounting bolts. The front bolt sits up in the frame. pic #4

Remove the spring retainers from the upper mounting nuts, one side, front and rear.

Attached Thumbnails

         

Use the floor jack to keep tension on the lower control arm. Remove the bolts from the mount bushings on one side. The front one is easier to remove if you slide the bolt out first and then slip the washer out. Pull the retaining tab from the frame rail.

Lower the jack and the subframe will drop down. You may need to turn the steering to clear the tie-rod end. The brake line will be tight but it won't be stretched. You might need to guide it around the curve of the upper control arm.

Place one of the medium screwdriver blades into the flattened side of the bushing area. Push down on the handle and the bushing will slide up. You might need to pry on both sides of the bushing at the same time. That is why I said 2 screwdrivers.

Attached Thumbnails

       

Clean the front and rear bushing sockets.

Place the bushings in their sockets.

Assemble the retaining bolts and washer spacer combo.

Attached Thumbnails

         

Use the floor jack to lift the subframe almost in place. Wiggle the bushings to seat the "cup" of the bushing to the shoulder of the frame mount.

Insert the retainer into the upper slot, thin prong first, rounded nut side DOWN!

Slide bolt assembly through the bushing and start the bolt a few threads. Insert the snap retainers.

Now do the other side.

You might have to completely undo the stabilizer on the second side. If you do, make sure you have pressure on the control arm and lower it slowly.

Let's finish it now. Use the jack to put tension on the control arm. Tighten the bushing bolts. Work the shock bolts back into their holes, replace the nuts and tighten. You will need to use the jack to get the proper level for this. Tighten the stabilizer links. The tightening specification for the stabilizer is when the rubber bushing has expanded to the size of the steel washer you have achieved the proper tension. Now do the other side.

You're done! I did both sides in my driveway, laying down, taking pictures in under 3 hours. It is easier on a lift. I have done one side in under 22 minutes using air tools.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Nice write-up! Thanks for taking the time! I'll be wading into the front suspension soon enough...

Edit: parts are ordered...as well as the drivetrain suspension components, and tie rods.

__________________
1973 280 - Current Project Car
1979 240d - 100% Stock
1982 380sl - 100% Stock
1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified

Thanks for this!

MikeD,

Thanks for the write up and pics!

Jim

__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Such a great write up.....Come on new job that will let me do this SOON

I have a few questions on this older post,

Does the engine stay bolted to the subframe?
If so, lowering the subframe/engine combo will not damage other components?

I did this on my 72 (following Mike's instructions)...worked like a charm (no damage at all).

__________________

Current:
1971 Mercedes Benz 250 (Euro Spec)
1972 Mercedes Benz 250 (US Spec)
Past:
1972 Mercedes Benz 280

No problem if you do one side at a time per instructions.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Thanks for this write up Mike D. I will be tackling this, this weekend. I will also do the rear mounts along with my diff middle mount.

__________________

1976 280C
SLOWER DRIVERS KEEP TO THE RIGHT.
DRIVE RIGHT PASS LEFT

Hi Mike D ,
I realise it’s an old post but an absolute godsend for me as I’m about to tackle this job tomorrow and your instructions will be invaluable. I have just joined the forum tonight and already feeling more confident about the task tomorrow. What a great forum , I find it difficult getting info and chat specifically for the W114 and W115 ....I might update you when jobs done ...many thanks