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  #1  
Old 02-23-2010, 04:56 PM
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1968 230 steering coupler

Hey could I get some advice on how to install the steering coupler on my '68 230. It has a power steering box and the coupler is in a hard to get at place right above it. It looks like the little pins are worn out in there and im getting sloppy steering.
It looks like its going to be a pain to do this one but its got to be done.
Any thoughts? Done this one before?

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  #2  
Old 02-23-2010, 05:48 PM
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The steering box has to be dropped a bit to install the new coupler. Believe me i have done this before its not a fun job.

If you really didn't want to drop the box your could remove the steering column but to me that seems like more work.

Be sure you place reference marks on the box and the old coupler so you know where to install the new one so that the wheel are straight when the steering wheel is straight.
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1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

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1976 300D 195,300 miles
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2010, 06:38 PM
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If you do end up dropping the box to replace the coupler (bushing replacement kits are available IF you have the correct coupler style for about $10 as opposed to the $90 couple assembly) then you MUST replace the bolts with NEW bolts!!! Don't re-use the old ones. They are grade 10.9, available at any real hardware store/ bolt supply house. Torque the bolts, don't just whale on them with an impact gun.

The coupler has been replaced from above by pulling the steering column and housing. I haven't done it so far but I'll double-damned guarantee I'm gonna try it on the next one! Dropping the box is a pain.
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2010, 07:23 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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I did mine from the top on my W116 and I would bet you can do this one the same way. If you can, it could be a fairly easy one hour job. From the bottom...well you can imagine...

Rick
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Last edited by rs899; 02-24-2010 at 06:23 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2010, 08:40 PM
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It seems like from looking at it I need to remove 3 bolts in the fender well, 2 hoses and the connection on the bottom to the steering arms.

Is this pretty much all their is to remove?

If I decided to do it from just removing the steering column what has to be removed?
If I removed the Allen bolts in the coupler will the column just pull up out of the way or maybe theirs more to it.

I've got so many things to fix on the thing right now and it looks like more snowy weather tommorow.

Thanks for the replies
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:31 PM
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How does one know if it is the correct style to use the kit? I am sending in my box to be resealed and while it is out I am replacing the coupling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
If you do end up dropping the box to replace the coupler (bushing replacement kits are available IF you have the correct coupler style for about $10 as opposed to the $90 couple assembly) then you MUST replace the bolts with NEW bolts!!! Don't re-use the old ones. They are grade 10.9, available at any real hardware store/ bolt supply house. Torque the bolts, don't just whale on them with an impact gun.

The coupler has been replaced from above by pulling the steering column and housing. I haven't done it so far but I'll double-damned guarantee I'm gonna try it on the next one! Dropping the box is a pain.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2010, 11:20 PM
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Mine looks like it has two pins with some square keepers on the bottom I don't know if that's the rebuildable one or not.

Where can I get the bushngs to put on there?
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2010, 02:02 AM
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The complete removal of the steering box is not necessary.
All you have to do is remove the pitman arm.
Then remove the two lowest bolts and loosen the top one, but do not remove it. Which are inside the wheel well. Slide the coupling off and you should be able to rotate the box up or down to completely remove the coupling.
As long as the top bolt is connected the box should stay in place.
Good Luck
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2010, 07:14 AM
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Replaceable bushing style couplers have spring locks securing the bushings. I think I have one around here. I'll try to post a pic later on today.
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2010, 02:56 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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From Chuck Taylor, ca 2006 re R107:

Quote:
What on earth are you guys doing?
This is not a hard repair. You remove the steering wheel and the combo switch, then the three screws in the steering hub that hold the steering shaft in. You undo the coupling screws (a 1/4" hex bit ratchet and sockets really help) and pull the steering shaft up a couple of inches. Install the new coupling, and reassemble in reverse order.

The only trick is to mark both ends of the steering shaft so you get everything to line up the way it was. Otherwise you will have an off-center steering wheel and the turn signals will not cancel correctly.

Try a search - I did a detailed post on this when I replaced my steering box a year or two ago.

And it is on the CD.

I am not making this up.
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works on a W116, maybe your W114 too?
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  #11  
Old 02-24-2010, 04:49 PM
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I'm going to try doing it from the steering wheel side rather than the steering box side. I sure hope it works or I'll be doing both procedures.
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  #12  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:26 AM
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1968 230 steering coupler-coupler1.jpg

1968 230 steering coupler-coupler2.jpg

1968 230 steering coupler-coupler3.jpg

1968 230 steering coupler-coupler4.jpg

1968 230 steering coupler-coupler5.jpg


#1 replaceable style coupler. Note the spring clips. Bushings already removed.

#2 How the clips come off.

#3 Clips off and showing where the bushings were.

#4 Coupler dis-assembled. Check the bushing mounting holes for wear and "roundness"

#5 Coupler apart. Check the pins for galling and deep rust.

Gently spread the pinch points on the coupler to re-install. I use a cold chisel and small hammer to open them up just a little. Test the fit before you install. Use NEW allen head bolts on the crimps. The kit comes with new clips.

Last edited by Mike D; 02-25-2010 at 09:32 AM.
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  #13  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:49 AM
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If it's similar to the removal of the coupler on a 113 car, it's a pain in the but. You have to disconnect the steering box, which on a 113 you do from the inside of the car (shroud covering it an footwell) and loosen the bolts. Box must be unbolted and then you have to get the spline shaft to separate. Total pain since the box must then be moved away a bit (but doesn't have to be disconnected on a 113). Ug. Getting it all back together is unpleasant. The results are wonderful though. On my 113 it was $5 in parts and many hours of labor. At least on a 113 you can't remove the steering column to do this - you have to disconnect the box from the wheel well.
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  #14  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:38 PM
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Where does one buy the bushing kit? I looked in Fastlane and only founf the complete coupling.
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'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
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'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2010, 01:28 PM
Pooka
 
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Two suggestions....

Lube up the pins with grease during reassembly.

When you replace the bolts holding the steering box, if you remove the box, replace them with bolts from a brand called 'Unbrakeo'. These have a sheer strength of 300,000 psi.

Call a bolt dealer as these bolts are not normally carried by a hardware store.

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