Update .. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 10-14-2003, 12:40 PM

Thanks, guys. Still haven't changed the fluid as yet, but there's some updates as to my steering issues. I still have a pull to the left (pretty bad) when driving down the road, and when breaking. I had all my stering links checked and the alignment was fine as well.

My mechanic found that there was some play in the front right wheel bearing, so this might have caused the play in the steering that I was complaining about, but since he tightened the bearing, the steering feels stiffer than ever. (maybe it was always supposed to be like this and I just got used to it being quite loose!)

So I will check the fluid change and see what it does, and I will give the front left break caliper a look over too. (I've had issues with my calipers since buying this car)

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115

300SDog · #2 10-15-2003, 05:54 PM

Even just moving calipre pistons can improve their action..... say, replicating brake pad change by forcing pistons back into calipres and pumping them back and forth a couple of times. Also you can clean external surfaces, pins and casing, with brake fluid and brass brush.

Flushing hydraulics with fresh DOT 4 fluid is something practically nobody ever does - its recommended by MB to be done each 30,000 miles or every 2 yrs.

#3 11-10-2003, 04:26 PM

Went to my mechanic and had him take a look at the car. He said brakes are fine (otherwise the front wheels wouldn't turn freely on the hoist) and alignment was set up properly. My lower control arm bushings are completely gone (I had the upper ones changed a year or so ago) and he adjusted the front wheel bearings but said they may need replacing.

Does this sound about right?

Please let me know.

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115

Tomguy · #4 11-10-2003, 05:41 PM

Have you looked at "Radial pull"? If you rotate the tires left -> right and right -> left (just the front for now) and the pull goes the other way, one of your front tires is a "reject". Actually happened to me once. Put it on the back or get it replaced (if you can find which one it is). Otherwise, I don't know what lower control arm bushings would have to do with wheel bearings needing to be tightened - they're separate entities entirely. I hope he didnt OVERTIGHTEN your bearings - that'll make them burn up for sure!

#5 11-11-2003, 02:26 PM

Thanks about the tire tip, but I didn't have any luck with the radial pull. Besides I just had 4 new ones put on (thinking it was uneven wear or something)

I don't believe the lower control arm bushings and the bearings problems are related, but they may both need replacing soon and I just wanted to see if anyone knew more. I have done quite a few jobs like this on this car only to find out the problem was elsewhere.

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115

jas2wa · #6 11-11-2003, 02:47 PM

How about your subframe mount bushings? I think oyur 115 is similar to my 108 chassis in this regard- mine are due to be replaced, the front end "steers" under braking, b/c the whole subframe is able to move around- this would happen even if the alignment is set up properly, keep in mind.

My $0.02

JAS

#7 11-17-2003, 08:10 PM

Wow, I didn't even think of the subframe. This could well be a problem, because I know for sure that the mounts have not been changed. Given that the lower control arm bushings have needed changing for a while now so why the problems all of a sudden? And given the fact that I hear a slight clunking/bonking sound when breaking lightly (in stop and go conditions) this could be a good lead.

Thanks,

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115

Russ114 · #8 11-19-2003, 05:53 AM

clunking under brakeing? i'm assuming you've checked the tightness of the caliper bolts?. your hubs aren't warped or anything? you're not getting throbbing through the pedal on brakeing?...

what are your ball joints like?. i'll have to add a comment about subframe mounts, mine are shot too, and it handles poorly atm.