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#1
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R&R starter in 115
The car isn't starting when it gets hot, but will start w/o fail on cooler days ALL day long.
I spoke with a couple guys and they said they thought I needed the starter rebuilt. So I jacked up the car and looked up there and can't figure out how to get the darn thing out. I also couldn't see the upper bolt. Could anyone out there go through the steps of removing it? I did call a Lifetime starter and we'll replaceing for almost nothing place, but when I got there the tech ther looked at it and said that I NEEDED to take it to an MB mech because it would take him 5 hours to take it out! I just looked at him and said it's just some nuts and bolts. I hope that I was right that thinking that he just didn't want to do the work. Thanks again for your time. Nathan |
#2
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Chiltons manual
I'm not sure if I'm making more out of this than I should. I read the Chilton's manual and it has 4 steps to remove the starter, although it's numbered 1-5 ?
Looking up there I'm also wondering which way I should take the thing as there seems to be marginal clearance fro removal . Am I going to have to remove a support or something? Thx again |
#3
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I'm not by my books right now, but i do remember it being a pain when the mb tech replaced my starter in the 115. I believe he had to remove intermediate arms or something to get at the thing. Of course, mine's a diesel.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#4
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10mm Allen bolts.... if memory serves me well. Gotta have the socket, forget the usual "L" shaped allen tool that always bends and strips the bolt.
And the top one is impossible to reach, but you can insert the socket then rotate it with vice-grips or wiggle the starter motor collar after removing the lower bolt. Combination of crawling around underneath and reaching into the engine compartment will give you access. Gotta wonder why MB didnt have removable port at tranny tunnel to access the bolt from inside the car. Hell, i nearly cut a hole in the tranny tunnel myself with sawzall to access that bastard bolt. It took me one full day to replace the starter motor on my 114 in the driveway long time ago. Its basically a one bolt operation..... probably the toughest to reach on the entire car - so dont lose faith. |
#5
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Wait till your starter motor dies, then you'll see why MB didn't like those, or at least anyone who worked on them. I think it's a 15 hour job in the "book".
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#6
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Get your battery load tested, not just voltage tested. Electric motors such as those in starters lose efficiency when they get hot, so if your battery is not putting out enough cranking amps, the starter will drag.
There are a lot of posts about this on the Diesel forum. My 280C was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the battery, although I think I am on borrowed time on the starter.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#7
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Hello,
I cannot be certain if this is of any help to you, but when I had difficulty with the starter engaging when hot, my auto electrician fitted a relay to *help the solenoid pull in*(his words) and have never had any trouble since. Mine's a W115 200 gasoline. Have a good week.
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Nachi11744 |
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