11-27-2005, 12:25 AM
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just out there!
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: just out there!
Posts: 2,192
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oh heck, here is another little description: (this is something i need to do this winter also)
Quote:
It's not at all difficult. Success will depend on how many hours the
movement had on it when it stopped. Pull out the instrument cluster, spin
off the two finger-screws that hold the clock to the circuit board, and pull
it out front.
Make note of the condition of the white plastic clock case. Does it have a
blue plastic lock on one of the nuts? If so, then it hasn't been worked on.
Does it have a paper tape over the adjust hole? If so, it probably hasn't
been adjusted.
Break off the seal with small diagonal pliers, then remove the nuts with a
4.5mm nut driver. Pull off the case. The fuse is probably gone. Look for
a tiny blob of metal rolling around. If it's not rolling around, then it
may be jammed in the gearwork somewhere, and it must be found. The fuse is
normally located on one side of the solenoid. One of its electrodes will
have sprung away, and now lies against the phenolic back-plate. You will
see the holes in this and the stationary electrodes where the fuse/rivet was
installed.
Spring the bronze piece back so that the two holes match. While maintaining
tension on this spring, heat the junction with a soldering iron, and
introduce a little bit of tin/lead solder, sticking together the two metal
electrodes and establishing a conducting path.
Clean the soot out of the inside of the case, just to be neat. Use a
relay-contact burnisher on the points, or use a small bit of 600-grit emery
paper. Note that when you put a little force on the flywheel (where half of
the points is) the clock should start smartly and begin running. You can
cock the winder manually with a little flick of the flywheel (clockwise, if
you are looking toward the back of the clock) and watch it run until the
points touch.
Put a tiny, tiny bit of clock-oil in the bearings, front and back, of the
first and second wheels. Don't have any clock oil? Go to a good hobby shop
and get some German N-gauge (MiniTrix) or Z-gauge (Maerklin) model train
oil. It will do in a pinch. Try rocking the wheels to determine the
condition of the bearings. There should be no noticeable play. "First and
second wheels" are the wheel that contacts the winding flywheel (shafted to
the phenolic plate) by way of a pawl and the next wheel in the gear-train.
If the back bearings for these wheels are shot, then the clock will not
start spontaneously nor run freely.
Do not get near this clock with WD-40. WD-40 has its place, but that place
is not on the same bench with a clock.
Connect the clock to a 12-volt supply and observe its running. Set it. Let
it run overnight. Note the time, and adjust as appropriate. Adjustment is
a gradual, subtle procedure, and should never be rushed. Don't expect too
much accuracy from such a simple movement.
That's the minimum clock service. If anything else is wrong, then the
movement has to be taken apart, and that's another story.
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