Neal,
Been working on it all day and I just got it out around 5:00 this evening.

Actually you have to work from the top and bottom on the 93 model, 2.3 190E.

The mounting bracket is scarry because it looks like it would be stuck in there but its not. It moves once unbolted. Getting to the bottom bolt of the bracket is a challenge. I used 3/8 extension and went in from the side of the intake manifold near fender. Top bolts of bracket sit just under the air breather cover and are 6mm hex.

The pitman arm does not have to be removed. You get it out of the way by turning the steering wheel.. to the right, I believe.

Top starter bolt is removed from under the hood and bottom starter bolt from under the car.

I removed starter wires after unbolting starter and by removing the bolt to the fastener that adjust the length of the cable going to the starter. Loosening the cable lets you turn and drop the starter somewhat so that you can get to the nut and phillips head screw that fasten the wires to the solinoid and starter.

The starter then slides out through the bottom past the pitman arm.

I tested the unit one I got it out and so far it works fine. I suspect that the contact point at the solinoid and wire leading to it is coroded and that is why starter failed to activate.

I put starter in freezer to see if the solinoid will stick during next test.

Hope wife does not take it out and cook it for dinner.

Earl

P.S. I did do the neutral safety switch test prior to removal of starter and the switch passed. I ran voltage directly to solinoid from firewall and got no activity from solinoid. I then tapped on the starter and it activated.

So it could be the contact point between wire and solinoid that is corroded... or it could be a stuck solinoid piston. Maybe the freezer test will tell me something.

Does anyone have any experience as to corrosion causing a failure as described above.

Neal, thanks again for going the extra mile.

__________________
Earl



1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra