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Old 12-11-2005, 10:45 PM
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dieseldiehard dieseldiehard is offline
Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,415
Quote:
Originally Posted by nazrat
I can get a replacement fuse box and get away from those silly fuses and switch to the ATO style fuses which I can find in a 7-11 if needed. I could also easily have the fuse box in a location that isn't behind the brake booster. I can add circuits at the same time if I wish. All for around $30 to $35 + shipping and 2 hours of my time to solder extensions onto the wires (if necessary). I already have to spend some time replacing this fuse box with the one from my parts vehicle, so 2 hours may or may not be a good estimate.

I'm liking the idea of having a blade-type fuse box on the driver's side inner fender. I would have to extend the wires to that position. I could mount it under the dash above the brake pedal without extending them it would seem.

I've never had a blade type fuse cause a problem because of its design. These fuses however seem to have numerous problem including locating replacements. Even with the proper fuses (which I've had in my previous 123s) they seem to have a tendency to not seat securely over long periods of time.

Maybe I'm crazy for even thinking about this.

-Tad
I have a melted fuse on a 123 also its from the fan shorting when the brushes wear down, have you checked your fan (inside fan)? Thats what the retrofit was designed to do, prevent this kind of melting.
I would think replacing the fuse holder will take one a gruelling 4 hours. its the underdash work that is hard on the neck! A new fuseholder sold for fairly high price on eBay recently.
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Last edited by whunter; 06-25-2011 at 10:31 PM. Reason: removed dead link
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