Quote:
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Originally Posted by mikemover
 PLEASE don't use the permanent lock-tite!!!!
(kut)
The MB engineers never used lock-tite on MB engines. On bolts that needed a little extra insurance, they used lock WASHERS... but never any type chemical thread-locking stuff that I'm aware of.
If they didn't use it at the factory, then you shouldn't need to use it now.
If you have vibrations that are so bad that nuts and bolts are coming loose, then either you're not torquing them properly, or you are installing them without the lock washers that they are supposed to have, or you have some mechanical problems or worn mounts that are causing excessive vibrations.
Mike |
My 124 FSM calls for locking material on the big central hex socket bolt that holds the serpentine belt tensioner on to the aluminum front engine cover of the 603 motor. BTW that bugger is a real ***** to get off and I couldn't imagine using heat on it so I used a 2 ft. long extension on the hex wrench. I complied with the note and used blue locktite on the replacement bolt.
And all the brake caliper mounting bolts come from the factory with blue locking material on the threads but I admit I never used locktite when replacing them and none have ever come loose (yet!)
Putting locktite on threaded fasteners that can and will be a problem to someone someday when the parts need to be removed is not something I think about when working on an engine, and I do not use it hardly ever.
I will however add antisieze on just about anything that is subject to water and corrosion or high temps like exhaust studs and turbo bolts. An exception is glow plugs, I read something about the silvery molybdenum disulphide causing electrolysis with aluminum, so I have ceased using it on GP's even though I haven't found one with the stuff that was corroded yet. Since there are so many cars and so many variables YMMV.
I also use wavy washers whenever I see the opportunity to use one even if the factory left them off for what I assume are cost reduction measures.