I would suggest buying the 124 series repair CD (ebay is a good source) It has all that you could ask for although the interface and menus and user interface are a bit awkward.

The suspension on the 124 cars (first deployed in the 201/190 series) was quite unique in its day. The rear suspension is what is described as a multi-link, with five links controlling and locating each wheel. The rear suspension is attached to a sub-frame that is in turn attached to the body. The reason for all the links was to ensure positive wheel location through out its travel but not to allow any additional “steering influences”.

The links, with the exception of what some people call the lower control arm; all have rubber bushings at each end. These bushings will fail over time.

In the front, the suspension is a bit more straight-forward with a traditional shock/strut and a lower A-arm.

With any previously owned car I have purchased, I ALWAYS change the front and rear sway bar bushings. The results are a flatter body positioning during cornering and the car generally feels tighter. It is easy to do and not expensive as you are only changing rubber bushings and two plastic links. The fronts have two large bushings, the rear sway bar has two bushings locating to the body and the two vertical links.

Besides the typical ball joints, tie-rods etc there is also a steering dampener and at the top of the shocks a rubber mount which breaks down. If it were my car I would look at the upper shock mount, the steering dampener, replace the steering idler arm bushings.

Shocks: I ONLY use Brillstein HDs on all of my cars. They are firm, not harsh. Since your car has 120k+ miles it may be a good time to consider changing them.

You can determine if you need motor mounts the engine will have settled too close to the sub frame. You should have at least 13mm (if I recall correctly) between the engine and the sub frame.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)