I have the same problem with my ABS. If you don't care to spend the money, or don't care if the ABS works (the brakes will continue to function, however, as in 'fail safe'), and can live with the funny 'scrunch' at the pedal at low speeds, just pull the light out of the cluster and let it dangle behind in the dash. A piece of tape or rubber plugs the light hole. (I may get flamed for this, but I'm just not a fan of ABS, and an old car like mine has bigger priorities for my money).
You can change the rear pads without bleeding the system, in fact, no need to open it up at all, unless you want to crack the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back to make room for the new pads. It isn't necessary, but some like to avoid pushing the fluid back up the line into the master cylinder, against the normal seating of the seals.

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus