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Originally Posted by ezrider
Can someone please comment on the advisability of replacing the valve guides and stem seals (to maybe stop some of my oil consumption) while the head is off to do the gasket job (provided the compression test is good and everything else on the head looks ok)?
What's a best guess on what replacing guides and seals might cost (I forgot to ask the dealer today)?
Thank you.
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I second Mr. Carlton's advice; I recently had the head removed on the Volvo because the head gasket started weeping coolant behind the IP, and because after 390,000+ miles the valves were shot. The cost of the stem seals and guides is minimal and should be done while the head is off; it certainly can't do anything but help any oil consumption issues (assuming, of course, it's done right)--for me, I was using a quart every 750-800 miles, and now, over 2,000 miles since the work, I'm just a tiny bit below the full line on the dipstick. IMHO, the valves should be done as well--the Volvo is a 6 cyl, and the cost of the above items (seals, guides, valves) was under $375 for me; since I had quite a bit of other work done as well, the total cost to me was on the high side, but the parts you specifically ask about were NOT a significant expense, even w/ the cost of the valves added in. While you've got it all apart, get it all done; the head isn't cheap to get taken off, and you've got 175k---just my $0.02...
The local Porsche dealership took a '91 350 SD in trade a few weeks ago; I test drove it and WOW it was an amazing drive--they are nice cars, to say the least. This one had low miles, but several of the service receipts in the glove-box indicated that "oil was LOW" on numerous occasions when the car went in for service. I got scared (I read too many rod-bender tales!!) and it sold shortly thereafter anyway (for more $$ than I would have paid). One of these days, I'm going to have to 'graduate' from the 80s models to the 90s... Good luck with yours; they're very nice--
-Chris