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Old 03-13-2006, 10:14 AM
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JimmyL JimmyL is offline
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
We can talk you through this one, Jimmy.

The connection at the cooler requires heat, technique, and patience.

The connection at the filter housing requires a shorty crescent wrench. I cut and ground one.......especially for this purpose. Naturally, if you have an open end wrench......all the better........but........you may not want to cut it down.
I have read the stories of the oil cooler fitting twisting off with the oil cooler hose, ie: the dissimilar metal thing. No rust anywhere though, so that may be a plus?
I only tried with a standard wrench, which fit close, but I didn't notice the size. I was just seeing if it turned easily, and didn't put much effort into it at all. But I remember looking at the one on the housing and thinking "surely I don't have to remove the steering box........."
Does the motor mount have to be undone and the motor jacked up? The guy that just did my front end work and replaced the mounts said that the main bolt was stripped out, but they put it back in anyway! He jammed a torx bit in it or something, and it did look rather round.
Doesn't appear to be rocket science, but it isn't like changing the oil either...
Brian, you got a pic of the modified cresent? It would be interesting to see where the grinding was done.
The lower oil cooler line appears to be in the $60 dollar range. Saving on the labor would be nice.


DieselGiant, keep the pictorials coming......
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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