The crank bolt should be a 27mm if memory serves. Remember, at 0°, the #1 cyl could be at TDC during its firing or its just closed the exhaust valve and is about to open its intake valve (in which case the rotor should be pointing to the #6 cyl). If you arent sure, you can probably tell by looking at the cam lobe positions when you pull the oil filler cap. At TDC for the #1 cyl, the exhaust lobe will probably be somewhere around 45° pointing towards the driver's side, the intake 45° pointing towards the pass side.

Once you have the engine at TDC, you can check to see if the distributor is close to TDC or not. If your timing is 10° BTDC it should still start - so you're probably off by 360° +/- whatever timing value you have indicated. In this pic of a distributor you can see the TDC notch by the screw labeled #4 at the top. You want the rotor to be on this mark (or a bit "behind" it in the CCW direction) when the rotor is fully counterclockwise. Remember, these distributors have a mechanical advance, and the rotor will possibly be slightly more clockwise when the car is idling.

When pulling the trigger points, it doesn't matter where the rotor is. As long as you reinstall the points with both screws you're fine. As long as the points open and close (and are plugged in so the ECU knows when they do) your engine will run if your timing is on. Now, it might run like crap if they stay open or closed too long, but that's something else! As for the plugging them in part - I've closed the hood and forgotten this at LEAST twice! I'm sure others have too.