First thing I would do is check cam timing -- line the notch in the thrust washer for the cam sproket up with the bump on the front cam tower, then check the timing mark on the crank. Should be withing a degree or two of 0. If not, it will be off in increments of 12 or 13 degrees, one for each tooth the cam is off.

To fix, keep tension on the cam sproket while removing it from the cam, then lower it a bit and "walk" the chain the correct direction to get it lined up.

You will then need to check the injection timing -- remove the pressure valve holder on #1, remove the valve and spring, and re-install the pressure valve holder (the pressure valve holder is what the injection line screws onto). Attach a hose of some sort, and bend it over in a loop (no crimp, fuel must flow freely), or use the proper MB tool if you have it. Slowly rotate the engine while operating the hand pump (or attach a can) so that there is some pressure in the IP. Fuel will run out, then suddely slow to a drop a second or so -- this is the point were the plunger in the IP covers the fill slot. Crank must read 24 BTDC -- of only a bit off, loosen the three bolts that hold the IP on and rotate so that fuel flow just stops at 24 BTDC, then re-tighten.

If it's way off, you will have to remove those three bolts and pull the IP out. Line up the mark on the end of the driveshaft with the mark on the body of the pump (upper left corner looking at the drive end, I think). There is also a "missing spline" that matches the hash mark.

Re-install the pump with the crank at 24 degrees, and adjust timing to excatly 24.

Good news is that I dropped BOTH ends of the chain on the 220D while pulling a new one in (12 degrees of stretch, for heaven's sake, badly neglected car!) and the IP and cam timing were both OK when I got the ends fished back up.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!