Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Hi Jack
The answer is no. There are three adjustments you should check. The first two are the front and rear window upstops, the third is the actuator arm upstop. The actuator has an upstop and a downstop, and is capable of bending things if those stops are incorrectly adjusted. They limit the up and down travel of the actuator arm. The front and rear window upstops are located under the inner door panel, at the top of the inner door frame area.

When the glass is correctly aligned and adjusted, the front upper edge of the window pane will just touch the rubber seal when the door engages the first stage of the door lock. (Use the rear guide rail and front lower guide rail adjustments to adjust for this.) With the door completely closed, the pane should rest in it's complete length against the inner lip of the front/top rubber seal. The door pane should clear the outer lip when the door is closed. (use the upstops to adjust for this)

The glass pane should be adjusted fore and aft so that when it is up it is fully seated in the rubber seal at the front. (Use the front lifting rail adjustment screws to adjust for this.)

The glass pane should contact the rubber seal evenly, height-wise. (Use the rear lifting rail adjustment to adjust for this.) On my '82 380SL, the actuator arm was actually bent because the actuator upstop was incorrectly adjusted, causing the rear of the glass to be over 1/2" too low, which was too much to adjust for with the rear lifting rail adjustments. It was necessary to straighten the actuator arm to repair this problem.

Whenever you work on a door, be sure to replace the protective plastic sheeting under the inner door panel, it keeps the inner door panel from disintegrating when it rains.

Regards,