Those assemblies have to do with the linkage for the cruise control and the mechanical connection between the accelerator pedal and the injection pump. [I had to concentrate very carefully here not to say "gas pedal" and "throttle linkage" ]

I haven't done a valve adjustment yet, but I did go through the linkage assembly, popping off each link and applying some lithium grease for lubrication. This would be a good idea while you are working with these items. When it comes time to actually take the valve cover off, I plan to label all the little linkage pieces, take a few digital pictures, and then remove them. There are so many that I know I couldn't get them back in place from memory.

It looks pretty intimidating at first, but I think you'll be OK if you get organized and take some notes. As far as I can tell, if you put all the links back where they came from, and don't change the adjustment on them (they each have a lock nut and their length can be adjusted by turning one end in/out on the threaded rod) there should be no impact on linkage settings.

Incidently, one of the first things I had to do after getting the car was to replace the part of the linkage that attaches to the firewall. It holds a long rod and acts to convert the pressing of the accelerator pedal to a rotational motion. Mounts to the firewall with two bolts. The OEM piece was made with an inferior plastic that tended to wear and break - the result was the linkage rod would pull away from the firewall. Replacement cost around $45 and is a much better design/construction - and it makes the pedal action much smoother. And no doubt safer.

Be sure to inspect this part of the linkage while you're in the engine compartment. Replacing this and lubricating all the linkage bars really made a difference in the ease and smoothness of the accelerator pedal action.

When you complete the valve adjustment, please report back on what you found in terms of how far (if at all) the valves were off specification.

Ken