Quote:
|
Originally Posted by mobetta
yes, i know it isn't nessicary to remove the subframe, i thought it would be easier, and why not r&r everything while I'm at it. thanks for the link, I've already got that one bookmarked.
so far I have to order:
4 trailing arm bushings
subframe mount kit
diff. mount
some hyd oil
Stabilizer/Sway Bar Link; Rear Sway Bar to Trailing Arm
|
Consider sway bar MOUNT bushings. Get them at the dealer. You will have to use a later year bushing. Mercedes part number 201 326 10 81
New rear brake line hoses. Your going to disconnect them while your doing this. or brake work if necessary, its out.
Fuel tank rubber hoses, your there already.
Trailing arm bushings do not have to be eccentric
Consider painting the trailing arms while they are out, POR-15 would be best. Also inspect carefully the trailing arms for structural integrity, IE internal rust. they rust from within.
Check your drive shaft flex discs while there. Without removing the subframe, I had to disconnect the rear flex disc to get access to one of the trailing arm bolts. Could not remove the bolt due to the flex disc being in the way.
Fuel line rubber mounts.
Filter for the self leveling reservoir, consider flushing the fluid at this time.
Axel rubber boots, If OK I recommend treating them with 303 Aerospace Conditioner, available at RV stores.
If the rubber shield around the leveling strut is old a cracked. I repaired my quite successfully with "plastic dip" spray, available at Home Depot or Lowes.
20-30 coats, it sprays quite a thin layer.
Access to the differential mount to differential bolt. Required some creative tool combinations. The fuel tank is quite close and so not much room is available for a torque wrench. I had to estimate the torquing of that bolt.
On removing the entire rear sub assembly. It is quite large and heavy. Remember you have to be able to position it to reconnect it to the car. Without the cradle, as shown in the manual, and a lift, this might be difficult. I found manipulating the trailing arm, doable but sort of at the limit of a one man job, weight and bulk wise. This is sort of like removing the front coils springs without the Sir tool or Klann compressor. Yes you can do it, BUT you can't get it back together without the compressor.
If you remove each trailing arm separately I disconnected the parking brake cable at the Y fitting in the middle of the car. And pulled the cable thru its mounts.
Dave