Since this seems to be a somewhat common occurance and may be within the clearcoat itself, not the paint substructure, the problem seems to be cured even temporarily with waxing etc. Why not just re-clear those troubled areas?

This of course if you are looking to save some substantial money. If your paint is intact and in good shape but your clear topcoat is damaged, it can be re-cleared and bring back the original finish and color. This will save you from having to repaint the whole car. To tell you the truth if your body were free from dings etc just cloudy, I would definately consider clearcoating the entire car, but you can also just focus on typicl problems spots such as the hood trunk and roof. Either way this will be much less expensive than a full repaint and will provide you years of protection and beauty. Talk to a few paint pros and get their thoughts.

Clearcoats can be very tricky in that they themselves can look deceptively bad making the whole thing including the underlying paint look bad which its often not. So topcoating again will fill in all of the hairline scratches and cracks leading to the haziness and restore a nice deep finish. BTW this works great on dash wood as well, if the underlying veneer is not split (usually in the varnish coat) top coating with Lacquer or Poly will restore the wood and elimnate the cracks.

An easy test to see if you have a clearcoat problem is to run an even, wide stream of water over an affected area, just let it fully wash over your test area and look at it closely, if your paint seems (just like new) then you can save it with a new clearcoat. Woth a shot at least.

Best of luck

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)