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Hello Craig,
It really isn't hard @ all.. My biggest concern right now though is the pump.. Unless the PO looped the system back on itself (I doubt it given the quality of shock they installed) the pump will have burned itself out as it relies on the SLS fluid to keep it lubricated.
Also, is your proportioning valve still in place? That's a pricey item that is easy to remove.
All of that aside, if the lines/fixtures are still in place you will want to drop the KYB's from the bottom of the trailing arm. You'll need to remove the rear seats (two levers on the seat bottom, 8mm bolts on the seat back. The seat back lifts Up then Out. Be careful when lifting as the fabric b/w the leather and the frame like to get brittle w/ age and thus tears quite easily.
Once the seat is out you can pop out the two plastic plugs on each side (you'll need to move the factory amps out of the way assuming they are still there).
If you have the car up on stands you'll want to feed the SLS strut in from the bottom and just snug the bolt...even finger tight to start is OK. Usually the strut will collapse when you are installing it so you'll need to wiggle it back up into position..usually you can do this by sneaking your fingers b/w the leaf springs.. Worst case have someone jack up on that wheel/trailing arm to get the strut up high enough to where it pokes through the mounting hole on top..
Oh, don't forget to put your lower rubber buffer on before sticking the shock in (the thick one).
Once the top of the shock is through re-connect the SLS line, be sure you have fresh crush washers for the connection.
Everything else is pretty self explanatory once you are in there.. The system is self bleeding so no worries there. But again, my biggest fear is that the pump will no longer be functional.. I'm also worried about your high pressure line off the pump..that's a common item to fail and I wouldn’t think sitting there wiggling around empty would do it any favours.
As for the spheres, there are 3 13mm nuts and one (I think) 11mm fitting on the the sphere/feed line. Connect the feed line first, and then attach the sphere to the chassis.
Once everything is in place, re-fill the reservoir (this would be an Ideal time to take it out and give it a good clean before it goes back into service).
We're I doing this job I would attach a catch can/hose to the return line on top of the reservoir and run a Good bit of fluid through the system before doing my final fill. The MB SLS fluid is ridiculously priced, so I use John Deere Hyd. fluid.. Same base material, same viscosity just more aggressive additive package (anti corrosion/frothing etc..). You can buy this by the gallon/5 gallon bucket @ tractor supply etc, etc.
After you are done flushing, have a couple friends sit on the trunk w/ the car running, see if your system will bring the car back level. You may have to do some adjusting via the arm off the proportioning valve to get the car to sit level when unloaded. Unless you car is lowered you should be able to crawl under there and get the job done...Although I would loosen the arm before dropping the car so it adjusts easily.
That's about all I can think of @ the moment... To bad I didn't know you were in need to SLS rams, I have a very nice set sitting on the shelf!
Best of luck!
Jonathan
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