Well, thanks for your input man. But to be honest, you insult my intelligence by assuming that I didn't do any research.

I am going to defend my thought process, because I planned this installation very carefully and consulted a lot of people in the process... I have spent HOURS ON END researching this installation, and I have very specific arguments to address everything you are falsely implying are mistakes.

First off, the subwoofer I bought is designed for infinite baffle (free air is not the correct term, by the way- free air implies that the sub is not attached to a sealed baffle). You immediately assumed that it was not designed for this application. So you can go ahead and do yourresearch before saying I should do mine, because I clearly have. It's cute that you think only one speaker brand is adequate for IB, but that is simply not the case.

This subwoofer model is the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10VQ. The sub is designed with a variable qts, which allows you to install it in multiple applications. It comes with two inserts that are placed in the magnet, each of which changes the Q. If you don't install an insert, it configures it to have the highest Q, which, as you probably know since you are apparently so "learned" in this area, is one of the most important factors when selecting a sub for an infinite baffle installation. The other reason it is suitable for IB is that it has an exceptionally stiff suspension. This is the second-most important factor. Needless to say, the manufacturer has designed this sub to work in infinite baffle, ported, and sealed enclosures. It specifically advertises it as such. Give google a try.

Second, in response to what you have said about sealing the trunk... I have not blocked off the vents that allow fumes to escape from the trunk. I am completely aware that they are there for that purpose. And OF COURSE you know that infinite baffle installations only require you to seal the front of the cone off from the back. Otherwise, the sound waves that are created when the sub jumps forward and backward would cancel eachother out and the sub would sound terrible. You do not need to create a sealed enclosure in the trunk to somehow mimic a huge traditionally sealed sub enclosure. Again, do some research about the physics behind infinite baffle. I can only assume that the IB subs you have heard were not installed properly- the cabin was not sealed from the trunk. Audiophiles will agree that a properly installed IB sub is the highest sound quality installation, period. The transient response is exceptional because the sub is not restricted by the back-pressure of an enclosure. It will respond to all of the frequencies it receives (within is designed frequency range).

I am not concerned about the fumes because (and I'm sure you would've realized this if you actually thought about it before you posted), the trunk is perfectly sealed off from the cabin. The fumes simply cannot get in. Think about what you're saying before you say it! Either they will linger in the trunk, or they will find their way out of the trunk through the vents that were designed for that very purpose. I'm not sure what you are talking about in terms of airflow from the cabin into the trunk- this would simply allow the fumes into the cabin, so I cannot imagine that Mercedes would've designed the car with that in mind. It's completely illogical, unless Mercedes designed the car so that the windows had to be open at all times to create the airflow you are talking about. If the windows were closed and the A/C were off, the fumes would come into the cabin and poison the occupants.

Lastly, in response to what you have said about securing the amp rack. Please read my post before criticizing me, as you wouldn't have said such a ridiculous thing if you had. I very clearly said that the amp rack was carefully cut to size so that it is wedged into place. I even drew a picture, buddy. The amp rack sits vertically with the amps installed, without moving at all, even if I don't secure it to the car. Weight is not the issue. Like I said in my post, all I need to do is secure it to ensure lateral movement is not possible. Your idea of gluing 2x2s in place and screwing the amp rack into them is valid, but since my subwoofer is in the way, I had to keep the amp rack as close to the gas tank as possible. Otherwise, my amps would not fit between the magnet and the gas tank.

Furthermore, to install the amp rack, I have to slide the top in first, then wedge the bottom in. If 2x2's were permanently affixed to the floor, this would not be possible.

So, since the amp rack's weight is supported independently of the slats on the gas tank, they are hardly going to bear enough of a load to cause any kind of a leak. Think about what you are saying. Do you really think that 1/4 inch MDF would hold up enough to rip a hole in a thick metal gas tank? That's just retarded. The MDF would tear apart and the epoxy would fail LONG before it would ever tear a hole in the sheet metal. You have me boggled.

Save your negativity and arrogance, man. Your post was useless, unless your intention was to rain on my parade and establish your "intelligence". Please do not ruin my thread with your nonsense.

Please don't hesitate to post your constructive criticism or questions. But if you're going to flat out tell me that I did something wrong and insinuate that I didn't think about what I was doing, save it for someone else. That kind of garbage is simply inconsiderate and rude. I have learned most of what I have from other people (who know what they're talking about), or are open to talk me through my challenges. I don't learn anything from people who cast a negative shadow on other peoples' work.