I don't see anything in your post about having a valve job done to the head while it is off. DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT DOING ALL THIS WORK WITHOUT DOING A VALVE JOB!!!!!

Secondly, there is absolutely no need to replace the head bolts if they are not stretched beyond spec. They are usually good for at least two retorquings.

When putting the rocker arm cradles back in place, DO NOT tighten down any single bolt without touching the others. Get everything in place with bolts started and then tighten them evenly a turn at a time all over until they are all tight, otherwise you can strip the aluminum threads and it is even possible to break the cam.

When torquing the head bolts, read the procedure carefully and make sure that you understand it. Torque them all in sequence to 50 ft. lbs or whatever it is, then use a 1/2" breakover to angle torque them all in sequence. Either mark all the bolts after the initial torque, or pay close attention while doing the angle torqe sequence. An interruption could put you in a situation where you don't know which ones you have already torqued. You feel like you are going to break the bolts in half and you will be tired after doing it I don't care what kind of physical condition you are in.

Be careful when sliding the upper timing cover rearward. You must not move the bottom U gasket and you must use your thumbnail to carefully slide the oiled shaft seal over the camshaft end. Be careful not to "fold" the seal.

Also, remove the exhaust manifolds by disconnecting the header pipes first. Do NOT get the bright idea to use bolts instead of studs on the manifolds to make it easier. In an aluminum head use STUDS!

Good luck.