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This is not a trivial thing to do. I disassembled my gauge to repaint the needle (and I did a spare). I didn't change the bulbs because that would involve even MORE disassembly. The gauge isn't really designed to be taken apart; I worked very carefully around the metal bezel seal around the front of the lip of the gauge with a very small screwdriver, lifting only a _very_ small amount each time, until it popped off (do this on a soft surface, because the glass will also come out). If you bend too much, your work will be visible from the front of the gauge, which would be bad. From that point, removing the two rear screws will allow the "guts" to be removed. Unfortunately, the bulb is buried in the guts.
Reassembly (make sure everything is absolutely spotless, the glass, watch for dust) involved judicious tapping and pressing around the edge of the seal until it stays in place snugly.
On one of the gauges (the one I used), I repainted the bezel and I didn't like the results, so I polished it (the bezel/seal is aluminum, I think) and it turned out pretty nice - matches my gauge trim rings.
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