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Old 10-09-2006, 03:17 PM
red560SL red560SL is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 47
Thank you whunter and ctaylor738 for your advice.

I do have to replace the rear wheel bearings. The car had been sitting in storage for several years. The vehicle was started weekly, but never driven. I can feel the bearings are shot. Even every seal in the tranny had to be replaced because they dried up and/or rotted. All bushings such as control arms (front and rear) and subframe are completely shot. Heck even the caliper piston seals were rotted or dried! I have completely finished the front end of the car (virtually a 100% restoration) and you can see the thread here.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=164789

I'm trying to help others by posting pics and give details of the process.

Now I've moved on to the rear of the car. It's not a case of not having to do the work. The problem is that it is a must at this point. I am doing a complete suspension restore and you don't do that by half assing things. And like I said, the front is 100% completed. I want to prove to me and other members of this forum that they too can do the job even if they are not a machanic. I haven't worked on a car since I was 16 years old!

I have used the search feature and have seen all the posts whunter has provided. Although there is no real explanations of what tools are "really" needed or pics and details of what to expect. And since none of these posts are for the 107 I have to question what corelates with the 107 that all these other posts are about. I don't want to make the same mistake I made in the front by purchasing $500+ in tools that wasn't needed. That was money wasted and I'll never use those tools. However I have no problem purchasing tools that are required as I realize the right tool can make the difference.

None of this stuff scares me and I have over $20,000 in tools already. I have presses, I have compressors, impacts, a tool box that's 8' tall and 4' wide stuffed with tools. Up to this point the biggest problems I've had was miss-information. Manuals giving bad specs or people saying "you need this tool" only to find out that the tool is not for my job. Sure it might work just fine with the W128, but not at all with my 107. I purchased a Mitchell manual on CD which gave torque specs for example that were double what it should have been. I had to repurchase all the cam bolts for the lower control arms in the front. I've purchased tools that were not needed. I've struggled hours on things that once you know what you're doing, would have taken only a few minutes to complete. That one little trick can make all the difference in the world. Knowing what to expect is half the battle.

So now here I am after completing the front end of the car. I now can tell people how easy this job can be and that you don't have to purchase $1,000 in special tools to do it. I've purchased another manual that now has proper specs, but like the Mitchell, it is written for the professional machanic. I can do the job, but I often don't understand the terminology which slows me way down.

I have ordered the special "Pin Wrench Socket" as this obviously is required. What other tools are required I have no idea since I have not read any posts here that have clarified that. The problem is that I don't know what to expect so I can only ask and hope someone can explain what happens when you turn out the "slot nut" for example. I don't know??? Does it all slide out at this point and I can bring all this to a machine shop like I did the front and have them press everything? Can I even remove that darn emergency brake cable I can't seem to figure out how to remove? Will I turn this nut only to find out I need a special impact puller and delay things another week?

At this point there's no turning back. The car is sitting three feet off the ground. All subframe bushings, differential mount, rear trailing arm mount bushing and who knows what else back there is completely shot, dried and/or rotted. Since the car sat for so long the bearings had dried and I'm sure have pitted as I can feel the roughness when spinning the wheels and it is not the axle making the noises. I'm this far already so why not go completely through it?

In my other post I plan to continue describing the steps taken to completely restore the suspension including rear wheel bearings for those who would like to restore their suspension or want to know what is involved. I will post pictures so they can see what I see and compare that with their own project. I want to help make mercedesshop.com an information resource as it has been a great help to me so far. And this is why I posted these questions here. But still I am not sure exactly where I'm headed. whunter gave a link to this B 90 -M Rear Wheel Bearing Kit for Mercedes tool:

http://www.sirtools.com/mercedes.htm

but when I questioned whether or not this was the correct tool for my job, I didn't get an answer. What I got was a link to more links about rear wheel bearing replacement on vehicles that are not the same as mine. So far this thread has not helped much. After more investigation about the above tool, I found out this tool is NOT for me:

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=B90-M&CTMP=1

It's for Chassis W124, W129, W201, W202 Models. Now if I would have followed his recommendation, it would have been another $300 tool in my box I would never use.

I only created this post to help me and others out. I was hoping to learn something and to not purchase tools I don't need and certainly not purchase tools that don't even work for my car. I'm here because I don't trust the machanic as they too often just think they know it all and are way to quick to give an answer. Luckily for me I don't just jump out and purchase that tool and I'm back here trying again to clarify things.

Thanks,
-Tony-

Last edited by red560SL; 10-09-2006 at 03:28 PM.
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