The blower motor is supplied via a fuse not in the fusebox, it's always powered when the key is on. Speed is controlled by a transistor switching unit inside the blower box via the climate control (I'm not sure what the system is for a manual AC system, I don't believe any were imported into the US).

If the strip fuse is good and you have voltage on the blower side, either the switching unit is bad or the brushes on the blower are bad. To test you must open up the heater box (remove wiper assembly and screen, then unclip the blower cover) and disconnect the switching unit. Ground the brown wire on the blower connector and the blower must come on full speed. If not, and there is voltage on the supply side, the blower is bad (usually worn out brushes). If it does, the switching unit is suspect unless the fuse for the ACC is bad, in which case you won't have a signal to the switching unit.

The yellow wire to the switching unit is the control line, varies from 0 to six V, I think. 6V is full speed.

You must test that strip fuse for continuity, they crack across and LOOK fine, but will fall apart when you remove it.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!