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Kefer:
Replace the starter switch and tumbler before the key gets stuck in it. Very, very expensive to take the steering column out and drill out the hardened anti-theft pins, etc. While the key works, tumbler replacement isn't difficult.
The noise is the over-run clutch squealing as the starter keeps running. You either had a defective switch, keeping the starter engaged, or a defective solenoid on the starter keeping the starter energized. Easy to tell, if hard on the ears -- hook up a test light to the small single wire on the starter and have a helper crank the engine -- if the light goes out when the helper releases the key, the solenoid is bad, if it stays on the switch is bad. If it is the solenoid, it could well be the return spring that is bad
The solenoid pushed the gear on the starter motor into the ring gear, and closes the contact to run battery power to the starter motor. If the return spring is broken, it won't release. Makes a godawful screech.
No special tools needed except a long extension to reach one of the bolts and allen drivers (all socket type hex bolts here) -- it is HEAVY, be very careful not to pinch fingers, etc -- it will probably have to come out from the bottom.
The climate control problem is most likely the monovalve (controls water flow through heater core) -- also, check for vaccuum lines (green plastic) with torn or cracked rubber ends.
Check for loose or shorted brake pad sensor wires on the front pads -- the light should only come on when the brakes are applied, if it blinks randomly it is shorted. Aftermarket pads sometimes aren't compatible with the warning system -- they are too conductive and can cause the blinking warning light. Also, check the brake reservior -- low brake fluid will do the same thing. Naturally, you will need to find the leak and fix it if you are losing brake fluid!
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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