I respectfully disagree about using a crane or helper for this cylinder head. I just took a five cylinder head today for shipping. In the crate that I made, it weighed 104 pounds and 7 ounces. I would estimate the crate at five or ten pounds.

I was able to change it on my daughter's car last Winter by myself, and it wasn't that bad. I have a walking beam in my shop, but I would have had to move things around at the time to center the car under the walking beam, so I just handled it. You have to set the head on the engine diagonally, then pick up the front to maneuver over the timing chain and guide, that's the hardest part.

To me it would be more trouble to mess with getting a cherry picker or whatever contraption to raise the head, than just muscling it in place.

Also, I wouldn't bother retorquing the head. Because of the way the stretch bolts maintain tension, I can't imagine this working on this engine. On an engine without stretch head bolts, maybe it would be worth a try. With the stretch bolts I think it would be a waste of time.

But, if you do decide to retorque, remember that you will have to loosen all bolts, then torque in sequence to 34, then in sequence to 52 and then in sequence 90 degrees, then in sequence another 90 degrees. Given that the bolts can only be stretched 2 or 3 times before they surpass specified length and have to be replaced, I would not take the risk of using up my head bolts. They are about $4.00 each or something like that. There must be about a couple of dozen of them or something.

On the other hand, if you can ensure that the head gasket is your problem. This engine will respond well to a valve job including guides. Much of the integrity of the engine is in the cylinder head. If the cylinder head is up to par, and there is not excessive liner wear, you will have an engine that runs extremely well.