Your comments were very helpfull. I have a complete set of Mercedes shop manuals, often very hard to follow. Thanks Larry and others for the experienced perspective.

I wouldnt do this job until next spring or summer, and I will monitor the situation until then.

The engine shows none of the performance problems you would ordinarily associate with a blown head gasket..it runs like a charm (except for the typical minor rocking at idle). I think I have a "weeping" head gasket...not a "blown" one. I have always adjusted valves and changed oil religiously....conceivably I could run this car for another 250,000 without needing head work (unrealistic??). I'd hate to do all this work because of a minor (?) problem.


I would very much like to try re-torquing the head this weekend, flush cooling system and put in new antifreeze.

As long as I am not getting coolant in the oil (which I have no indication of), I can deal with a tablespoon of oil each year ...just flush and change coolant yearly...and run the car. But, I would hate to have a subtle condition which causes major damage within a year or so (corrosion of rings, etc.??) due to small undetectable amounts of coolant in oil. I'm not sure what the possible consequences would be of just running the car like it is.

Well, first things first...I need to re-torque headbolts, flush/replace coolant, and drain radiator every month or two to see how much (if any) oil shows up.

Question: Is there a special torquing technique for re-torquing the head. I assume that the standard torquing procedure is intended for a new (un-compressed) head gasket, but do follow this procedure for re-torquing???

Also, before re-torquing, I would probably plug in block heater overnight (since we are into cold nights here in New England) just to warm things a little and make things more "pliable and forgiving".


Thanks again.

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)