Originally Posted by carnut

Well, my memory was close, but not exact. The idle air screw is forward on the intake manifold, next to the aux. air valve. Turning it out will raise idle. 4 to 5 clicks on the ECU knob could be too drastic. Try 1 or 2. I've not read anywhere in this thread that timing was verified at spec. I ran mine 2 degrees advanced from spec. The good thing about this fuel injection system is everything is adjustable, but this is also its weakness, everything can go out of adjustment. Most all the driveabilty issues with this system reside within the distributor. Oil residue on trigger points, distributor points out of adjustment, timing out of spec. To verify the throttle position sensor is correctly adjusted, have the ignit key in the run position, engine off and SLOWLY rotate the throttle linkage. You should hear 20 distinct clicks from closed to fully opened rotation. If during this rotation, you hear a lesser click or no click at all, then one contact is dirty or burnt thru. Also if you hear 18 or 19 clicks then the TPS needs adjusted to return it to 20 clicks. The TPS has 22 contacts, one to signal idle and another to signal wide open throttle. The remaining twenty signal the ECU to cycle the injectors to remain open longer as speed increases. I've seen cases where the car runs better if the air temp sensor is unplugged on the air cleaner inlet snorkle!