The blower should be capable of blowing you into the backseat, where the rear blower will take over and shove you into the trunk.

To test the blower, press AUTO - EC only shuts off the A/C compressor, and unless it's REALLY cold outside, you'll need it's help to moderate the temperature of the air coming from the heater.

Set the fan speed dial (in the very center of the climate control) to AUTO. Rotate both temperature dials up to the red detent position - I think you'll see 90F in both temp windows. The car must be showing at least some small amount of heat on the temp gauge for this test to be accurate.

Dials in the center of the dash control only airflow to the left, center 2 and right dash vents - they have no effect on the airflow from the heater, which should produce most volume from the vents in the knee bolsters on the drivers and passenger side. Air also blows into the doors, so there's a seal at the end of the dash for those ducts. You should get a small amount of "bleed" air from the outboard dash vents, and also some bleed air from the defroster vents.

Give the system a few seconds to get it's bearings and you should get full force blow from the fan.

If you don't get a huge increase in air volume after 5-10 seconds, rotate the fan speed dial to HIGH and see if the fan speed changes. If it doesn't - something's not right.

If you get good blow from the A/C vents (set the temp dials to the blue detent), but not from the heater vents, it's possible that something's not right with the dampers inside the ducting system.

You can pull trouble codes for the A/C right from the Climate Control unit - it's quick and easy to do. Here are the steps:
1) Key OFF
2) Left temp wheel - rotate to red detent. If the wheel seems to want to go all the way around (mine used to until I got the unit fixed), you should still feel a click around the point where the end of the red stripe becomes visible. I think the temp window will show HI when the dial is in the correct position.
3) Right temp wheel - rotate to blue detent. Same note applies if the wheel rotates freely through 360 degrees of rotation. I believe you'll see LO when the dial is in the right spot.
4) Turn ignition key on to 2nd position - no need to start the car, but all the warning lights on the instrument cluster should be illuminated.
Press the left AUTO button.
5) Within 20 seconds, simultaneously press the REST and 0 button for more than 2 seconds and release.

You'll hear some clicking, the fans on the front of the radiator will cycle on to full power very briefly, and then any trouble codes stored by the A/C will be displayed in the temperature windows.

DTC codes are 3 digits in length - the left window will show E, plus the hundredths digit. The right window will show the tenths digit and single digit. For example, if the code is 125, you'll see E1 in the left window and 25 in the right window.
Press the RIGHT AUTO button to scroll through the list of trouble codes. Don't delete any of them yet.

A WORD OF WARNING - It is possible for a bad climate control unit to report DTC's for circuits/components that are working just fine. My CC was "flaky" - when I'd start the car, the fan would run gangbusters for a few minutes, then drop off to low speed, regardless of where I set the fan speed switch, or what temperature I selected on the dials. The DTC's told me I had a faulty duovalve, a faulty ETC sensor, a bad left temperature dial and a bad idle speed-up diode. I replaced the duovalve at an ultimate cost of over $500 because I assumed the DTC was correct, and I wasn't getting heat on the driver's side of the car.

I had the CC unit rebuilt - (send me a private message for the source) and once re-installed, I checked DTC's. None were reported. All of the components that were supposedly bad (except for the temperature dial), were actually OK, it was the CC that was bad. I now believe that there was nothing wrong with the duovalve, it was the bad left temperature dial that was preventing my getting heat on the driver's side.

You can also test the dampers, there's a different set of buttons to push to access this test protocol.

Spend $20 and get an alldatadiy.com membership for your car - TON's of diagnostic tests available there - that's where I got the instructions for the DTC test I just posted with this message.