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Old 01-13-2007, 06:51 PM
garymand garymand is offline
Old School Mechanic
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Auburn California
Posts: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by just-n-time View Post
Yes I shall keep on trying, It has been said you cant teach an ol dowg new trics, But I say ya can jest takes longer.
Well I had such high reading at the Eha that I put the meter down said to my self self must be somptin wrong.
Cousin Kennith has a digital unit I will use his as for mine I tried to get pics of it but my camera will not focus in on the tiny thing. It dose have MA 0.5,10,250 and 1.5 volts dc and ac scale but I cant read any # below 0.

As for the flow of the eng. what I was trying to say, was the eng. got very smooth and slow rhythmic search at one volt rise and fall back to start, say 4.4 to 5.4.

Went back to Shreveport today and started the trip with the eha unplugged was hard to get it to take the fuel, plugged in and it took the fuel ran very well till we started home it shuttered two or three times then cleared up,Though I did notice at 55 to 60 mph on cruse control it had a shutter took it off and it was fine tested this several times same result,so a smoke test will be used to see if I have another air leek.

By the By I have a sight for you look up air flow meter pot my name look into the two sights cool.
I'll look you up, you are notorious? See how much fun we are having?

Did you do the smoke? I've never done that, can you see the smoke being sucked into the leak?? I'll assume you still have to adjust the EHA:

1 "eng. got very smooth and slow rhythmic search at one volt rise and fall back to start, say 4.4 to 5.4." Wow, sounds like you nailed the idle mix adjustment. But, when you raise the rpm to 2000 (pull the plug to the ICV will get you close enough), does the voltage stay right in the middle of that range. Or, does it move off to one side and stabalize not at 5V? These two readings along with idle rpm tell you how well the EHA is set. I'm guessing your 2000 is not at 5.

I'll assume you need the EHA current reading and once you get EHA I right and the two mix V settings right, the car should run great. If not you have eliminated a lot got the fuel adjustment right on and know a lot more about what is not wrong.

2 "Well I had such high reading at the Eha that I put the meter down said to my self self must be somptin wrong." What was the reading??? We need #'s...

3 "It dose have MA 0.5,10,250 and 1.5 volts dc and ac scale but I cant read any # below 0." Cool, that is what you need. You need the 0.5MA and 100ma scales. .5 is close to 0 but if you have 6 to 8 ma at the EHA, the 10ma scale is needed. The 100 is needed to check the polarity and connections with ignition on eng off.

I'm suspecting you don't know how to use an amp meter. If so, read the next two paragraphs carefully: It is not connected like a volt meter:you have to open the circuit. It this case just pul the plug to expose the pins and connectors. The meter goes in one side of the circuit like a switch to a light, in 'series'. It jumpers, closes the circuit on one side, going between, the plug on the EHA and the socket that connects to that pin.

Get a jumper wire with allegator clips on each end, or rig one with a small wire like sprinkler or bell wire: paper clip size wire. Strip the ends about an inch. Pull the connector from the EHA. Wrap one end of the wire around the pin closest to you on the back of the EHA. Get a few turns on it to hold it on and give a certain connection. put the other end into the connector that would go to that pin: fold the end back on itself at least once so it holds itself securely in the socket. That makes one side of the circuit.

Now connect the meter leads the same way: one lead going to the pin and one going to the socket. The meter is now in series on one side of the EHA, the other side is jumpered and you are ready to measure.

Be careful not to let the wires touch metal. They are hot and connecting to ground may damage something!!! The meter is technically a short the EHA will get the same current and opperated normally with the meter in series.

To check your connections, Turn on the ignition and you get 25 or 75ma. If it pegs the needle left, polarity needs to be reversed. Just swap the connections at the meter. This is now + current. Up scale the meter to see the reading. Start the car and you should be measuring the EHA current for the temp of the engine. Get it warmed up and it should prop to a few ma. If it pegs south, the current is now negative, reverse the meter connections and down scale to see what you have and write it down.

Adjust the EHA screw 1/8 turn, Air Mix will now be off for the new amount of gas and you need adjustment the mix. Here is a trick: write down the idle and 2000 numbers. They should be different by how much of a change you made.

And, You may have missed this: the mix ratio at 2000 needs to stay right in the middle of the idle range. I'm sure yours won't be, ie 3-4 at idle, 6-7 at 2000. adjust to get back to 5+-.5. And when you are close, the 2000 reading will be very stable like 5+-.1, fun. Last the idle needs end up at 650. Too high and the mix is too rich, too low, guess. If you can't get them to 5 with smooth, 650 idle, say the idle is high, it means too rich EHA, low idle means too lean EHA.

Your turn,
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