Marvin:

Hard plastic hoses with rubber ends = vacuum control. Check the rubber parts -- they tend to get soft and leak, or get rock hard and crack from the engine compartment heat. Either way, the CC won't work. The plastic is usually ok, just brittle, so be carefull when attempting to remove the rubber ends. Rubber parts can be replaced with standard vacuum line from the autoparts store -- any "y" connectors should be MB replacements so they fit properly.

Check carefully for little plastic double-ended inserts in the lines, too -- these are filters or resctiction orifices and need to stay where they are if you replace the rubber bits.

Don't use WD-40 to lubricate anything -- it isn't lubricant, it is water dispersant. Turns into rubber cement with age. You need to take the rear side panels off and check the alignment of the window tracks -- if there is too much clearance between the window and the channel, it will jam. The gear mechanism may also need some light grease on the center pivot. Usually slow windows are worn channels -- if the motor itself is slow, it will need to be replaced.

Also, check the switches -- if the windows got used a bunch they may have high resistance.

My bet is that the window channels are shrunk, allowing the glass to get cocked and drag. I had the same problem with the 220D -- the "repaired" regulator on the driver's side broke (manual windows) -- got a replacement at the junkyard, and tightened up the channels a bit when I put it in. Window works much better now!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!