Wow,

That's a bunch of good information!

I went out and adjusted as many valve clearances as my wrench would fit and checked the rest. Tomorrow I have to carefully grind my crowsfoot so I can fit it on the ones the wrench wouldn't get (too tall) Cyl #5 , the one without compression had the intake valve clearance too tight but the exhaust was OK. I think it could still be the headgasket but a burnt valve seems likely. I would be happy if it was just an overtight intake valve, but I don't think the odds are in my favor...

• I'll try the compressed air. I still don't know what a leakdown test is.
• It looks like I'll be taking the head off, barring a miracle.
• I could use some advice picking out a valve spring compressor. I imagine I should make some marks and leave the crankshaft in a good position to make the timing chain end up where it's supposed to be and a little easier. I could use some advice on that topic also.
• Anyone know a good place to buy a headgasket and some valve seals?
• What haven't I thought of?

Thanks,

Basil

• Most of those desert roads are fine if it's dry and you drive slow, stay out of holes and deep sand, drive around rocks and are prepared to drive in reverse to the last safe turn around (that means you know when go no further which I guess separates the brave from the stuck! )We looked at satellite photos on google earth beforehand and knew where we wanted to go and which roads looked best. I would have enjoyed driving like there's no tomorrow but of course there is. I think for us that's today....