I replaced the thermostat this weekend. Definitely a major PITA, it took over three hours and lots of skinned knuckles. Whoever designed the placement of the thermostat, especially the rear bolt on the thermostat housing, must be a class-A sadist! Placing it behind a hose was truly inspired, especially since the hose is so short that gettting it loose was also an experience I hope NOT to relive anytime soon. After lots of misfires I finally managed to get a socket (with many u-joints and extensions) onto the bolt, and finally got the thermo off. Putting it back again was nasty, but not as bad as getting it off. Now after warming up the temp gauge reads right at 80C and holds there, so I guess it was all worth it!