Originally Posted by brewtoo

A few odds and ends for those who do this job...

Not really necessary to remove the steering wheel. I could not get the bolt loose even with an impact wrench.

Do remove the ignition switch from the column. It's easy. The retaining pin fell out of mine so watch out. You will have a rough time getting the heater box out with the ignition switch in the way.

The A-pillar trim is removed by pulling straight toward the back of the car. The two clips hold it firmly. Replacing it requires attention. I had to remove the visors and lower the top molding to get it back under at the top. Don't worry, the VIN tag that has to be bent forward will bend right back into place after you replace the A-pillar trim.

I used an ACM evaporator. It almost fit. The difference was mostly in the area of the expansion valve...it sat further back than the original. I had to loosen the clamp that holds the low-side pipe and slide it towards the firewall. The inlet and outlet pipes were a bit different. I had to use a bit of sealer in the gaps.

Pay attention when disassembling the heater box. Tons of screws and clips. There's more to it than you would expect and by the time you get to that part of the job you are in a hurry to finally get that damn evaporator out! Just remove everything from the outside of the box and it really will split open so you can get to the evap. Just take it easy and DON'T force anything. The heater core stays in place unless you are replacing it (you can replace the heater core without removing the heater box from the car). As everyone says, replace the vacuum pods. All of my dual-chamber pods were bad; all the others were ok. You can probably not bother with the footwell and diverter flap pods if yours are good. The diverter valve seems to rarely operate and the footwell is not too hard to get to in the car. Certainly do the center flap pod or you will be sorry if you have to replace it later, unless you have the hands of a munchkin. Test all the new pods with a MityVac. Then test them again right before you reinstall the box in the car. Being cowardly, I replaced ALL my pods, BTW.

You cannot take too many photos. I was SURE I had taken plenty but I still missed some things.

Leave the seats in. Put the car up on ramps and it will be easier all around.

Evidently the center vent light wire comes right out of the harness and has no end connector. Some people cut it. I removed the wheel from the center vent and left it in the car.

Be careful removing and fitting the dash and pay particular attention to easing the dash over the defroster outlets on the heater box.

One of the tougher puzzles on reassembly for me was the driver-side lower dash under the steering wheel. A word to the wise...put the black plastic front part in first. Hold your mouth just right and get everything positioned just so and get the fasteners in before anything moves. The passenger side is much easier.

When removing the floor ductwork, there is a secret little tab on the piece that goes under the seats. Gently bend it up to gain just enough clearance to get the two sections apart.

Toss the drain hoses and replace them with clear vinyl hose from Lowe's. 3/4" ID, 1" OD fits perfectly. I just saved you an hour - now you don't have to take the bottom of the case to Lowe's and try all the different ones.

When you drain the coolant, drain about a gallon out of the bottom of the radiator. Disconnect the driver-side heater hose and use compressed air to gently blow the coolant out of the heater core. This will save you from making a mess in the car.

Repair all the broken metal tabs on your AC vents with JB Weld. Reinforce the ones that have not broken yet with JB Weld.

The row of push buttons under the center vent? Remove the rocker switch on the right and the trick is...you remove the little panel by pushing it IN, not pulling it out.

There are FIVE NUTS that hold the heater box in.

Go ahead and remove the wiper for access. It will be easier than trying to get the blower power cable out of the firewall while you are trying to balance the heater box on its way out of the car. If you also remove the blower motor you will be able to see the evaporator to verify the leak and the box will be a bit lighter and a bit easier to remove.

I had plenty of bags ready for my fasteners but did not use the bag-and-label method. I simply replaced each fastener as I disassembled things and I think that is the best way to go.

Replace any burned out light bulbs while you are in there.

Go ahead and buy a little telescoping magnet to pick up those fasteners that get away.

Disconnect the battery and remove it for access to the heater hose on the right. Of course, you were going to disconnect the battery first thing, right? Good.

The panel with the window switches tilts to the side and stays in the car when the center console comes out.

Try to order your parts in advance so there will be no delays. You can forget a lot of assembly details while waiting for parts to arrive. Order the evaporator (w/expansion valve), pods, and drier. I replaced the pressure switches on the drier, too. You can test the pods before you ever take the car apart right through the glove box opening and determine which you need, if you are daring enough not to replace them all. If you buy an ACM evaporator, tell the seller to open the factory box, verify there is no damage and add packing material. Mine first one came with inadequate packing material to protect the evaporator.

I removed the center console first, before the dash to avoid damaging the top of the center console with the two bolts that stick down out of the dash.

No matter how careful you are, there will be times when you have to go back and disassemble what you just put together because something else needed to be assembled first.

When you restart the car, the coolant will be reluctant to flow thru the heater core. I ran the engine briefly up to about 1500 RPM and started the flow.

If you be careful and pay attention you really can do this job. I had the luxury of spending over three weeks on it, off and on. It is not a job I would want to be rushed on. Twelve days of that was spent waiting for parts and then replacements for damaged parts. It is a BIG job, no doubt about it. I had my trunk full of parts and the roof and truck lid covered with parts. It is a very satisfying job, though, and the labor savings are very significant. Replace your evaporator and you will surely feel like you have accomplished something.

I have lots of pics. Let me know if you need a pic of anything.