I did these in my driveway with car up on jack stands. They are a real pain, but doable without special merceces tool.

Removal (assuming your car is essentially the same as 300D):

Remove metal bracket (im not sure what this piece is called, couple of small bolts, easy off.) Remove center main bolt (this may or may not come out easily...more on this at the end of this post) When I first did the job, these main bolts came out very easily (half inch ratchet, breaker bar). Not the FUN part.....prying out the mount...this was a real pain....just have a lot of chisels, pry bars, heavy hammer etc. the one tool that I have use for MANY things, and was a necessity for me, is a very large channel lock pliers....sears craftsman, open to almost 5 inches...about $25, well worth it). When you manage to pry the mount out enough to get a grip on it, grab it with the channel locks and twist. Basically, you need to use every trick you can come up with to pry, twist, and mangle the mount, and eventually you will get it out. Each mount took me about 30 minutes to remove...a real pain.

Installation:

You must coat the mount with silicong grease ("Sylglide" at Pep boys or auto zone) as regular grease damages rubber, silicone grease does not...standard procedure for sliding in bushings. This is a real tough mount to install (without special tool), because you cant simply draw in with the bolt or with a treaded rod, because you would be pulling against the central rubber portion with a lot of play...not rigid enough to pull mount in fully and seat properly. you want to push it in by applying pressure to the solid metal portion of the mount. You cant simply bang it in, because when you hit one side the other pops out, and vice versa. The Mercedes special tool threads into the main bolt hole, and has another portion that you tighten and push mount in. What I did was make a tool out of solid oak..a u-shaped tool , and the two ends of the u just the correct width to apply pressure to metal portion of mount. This must be very strong...i used two pieces of 3/4 inch oak for bottom of u, and single pieces of 3/4 inch oak for sides. Coat mount with silicone grease , support wood tool with bottle jack or jack stand, and jack up bottle jack or lower car down so that weight of the car pushes mount in. THIS WAS EDITED....I didnt use threaded shaft to pull in as I said before (it was almost 2 years ago)...there is nowhere to push rod through...instead I used weight of car to push in the mounts.

Remaining assembly is simple.

ODDLY ENOUGH...when I first did the job, removing the mounts was tough but fairly straightforward. A year and a half later, I had to replace one of the rear trailing arms, and I was in the process of taking things apart, and I could not in any way remove the big center bolt from the subframe mount....I could turn it, but I could not break it free of the rubber!! I used a half inch breaker bar with a piece of pipe and rotated the bolt about 3/4 of the way around, and it still would not break free. In the end, this whole job was too much for me and I had a shop do it. When they blasted the subframe mount bolt with an impact wrench, the rubber part of the mount tore apart, and needed replacement.

So, when you install the center bolt, coat it with silicone.

In the end, $65 dollars for someone else to do it is well worth the money, unless you are crazy like me and will go to great lengths to accomplish the job yourself and buy yourself a couple of tools in the process (the large channel locks are a real handy tool for many many things)

Good luck

Let us know what you did.

Mark

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)