Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987
justin - I did a voltage check on the six pins at the relay box with the key turned on ... got 12v at each pin ... wouldn't that suggest the relay is OK, or is there more to it than that? Also tested the strap fuse and that was OK.
rrgrassi - my primary filter looks dirty ... I was just going to change it today, but put off the project. I don't think it can be anywhere near clogged enough to cause a no-start situation ... the car has been performing great. I had thought tank strainer, too, but it seems to me the car would be performing not-so-well in that scenario? 
... Glad you like my drawing ... thanks! I'll bet I could draw a 123 ... been a while since I've picked up a pencil, but I doubt I've lost anything.  Only thing that could be hard would be if it were a dark-colored car ... the "shine" is very tough to do with colored pencils, moreso on a dark color. But, I'd be willing to try. |
I believe there is more to it than that. In both of the possible "bad relay" cases I mentioned above, you would be getting 12V at the pins as expected I believe.
I'm pretty sure my GP relay is bad because my battery is good and my GPs are good, but this is what happens for me:
1) Attach multimeter to battery so that you can watch the multimeter while turning the key on/off.
2) Get in the car and turn the key on to light the GPs, note the voltage drop and watch for a trickle of voltage back up.
3) With the key still in the on position, watch the multimeter and let the 30 seconds pass so you can hear your GP relay clicking off and also note the increase in voltage at the battery when this happens.
4) Turn the key off and then back on again, does the same voltage drop occur this time as noted in Step 2?
For me, it's not the same (Step 4) and I want to get my hands on a good GP relay so I can at least prove or disprove this belief.