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The guy that I bought my cams from had the whole enchilahda for sale - cams, towers, rockers, and shims, all labeled nicely for installation. But a normal repair is a replacement cam and all of the rockers using the existing towers. This is what I would recommend unless you have scored bearings or other damage.
That said, you can probably get away with replacing just the bad rockers. But examine the undamaged ones carefully against the new ones for any sort of wear. On a good rocker you will see just a hint of a line at the apex of the curve where it meets the cam, and the curve will have the same profile as a new rocker.
Unless the sprockets have sharp pointed teeth or "egging", there is no reason to replace them.
The shims aka hockey pucks should be replaced as needed to get the proper pre-tensioning of the ball studs. The pucks come in six or seven thicknesses and there is a special tool to determine which thickness to use on a given cam lobe/rocker. It is important to do this right since if there is not enough pre-tension to keep the rocker tight against the cam lobe, you can get noise and "slap" and end up with more cam/rocker problems. There are several posts on how to make this adjustment. The place to start is to use your existing pucks and go up or down from there. BUT if any of them are worn where the rocker contacts them, they should be replaced with the same thickness.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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