Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Class Guru
You can leave this wire unhooked, no problem at all, as stated above.
However, I think it might be a good idea to also disable the check valve on the outlet side of the pump. This valve opens via a vacuum line when the pump runs, allowing the air to enter the exhaust manifold. If the pump were disabled and the check valve opened during initial wartmup, would the hot exhaust then be able to travel back into the pump and fry it?
Just unhook and plug the vacuum hose to be sure.
DG
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I hope I am not generalizing too much, but when there is air pump noise on start up, then the air pump bearings are suspect. If the bearing noise is continuous then the pulley bearing is suspect. I just replaced my smog pump with a $225 rebuild and a new check valve ($15), the one closet to the engine. The other valve, sometimes called a diverter valve has a vacuum line coming off it as is closest to the pump. Online sellers of rebuilts often require replacement of these two valves in order for their warranty to be effective. My check valve was choked with soot on the engine side and relatively clean on the pump side. The diverter valve seemed OK, plus it was $50 so I reused it. The check valve is a simple one way rubber flapper. Looking at my new check valve from the engine side, there is a coil spring there that I'm guessing is a heat related shut off. I'm keeping my fingers crossed with the rebuild. The rebuilder used the less expensive chinese bearing that has been talked about. There are many threads on this pulley bearing and it a great DIY project.
glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400